Dealing With Over-Processed Hair? I got you!! 7 Things I Did to Repair My Over-Processed Relaxed Hair
Tuesday, September 27, 2022Yup, that was me ↑
My hair was over-processed, limp, tangled, thin, fragile and damaged. I literally thought this was 'normal' until I came across ladies on the hair forums, back in the day, who had hair that was the TOTAL OPPOSITE of mine. Their hair was down their backs, thick, luscious and most importantly - HEALTHY!
At that moment, I knew everything I had been doing to my hair was completely wrong and change needed to take place asap. My hair demanded TLC and lotsss of it. I was a victim of over-processed hair for many many years and didn't even know it.
But what causes over-processed hair any way?
Over-processed hair can be the cause of frequent and misuse of relaxers, colour treatments, heat-styling tools, excessive manipulation etc. Your hair will feel weak, dry, brittle, stringy, and prone to breakage (basically damaged!).
My hair fit this description perfectly.
My frustration was at an all time high and tears were definitely shed! But my frustration led me to research, and my research revealed that there is light at the end of the tunnel!!
Here Are 7 Tips I Used To Help Repair My Over-Processed Hair:
1) Frequent Trims
The dead ends had to go! I got my hair trimmed immediately after making up my mind that I was going to take better care of my hair. My fresh ends gave me a clean slate to work with and automatically boosted my hair health! My ends were now even, appeared fuller and the breakage was minimized. Though, my thin ends were still present, they were no longer split. Instead of doing the big chop, I opted to trim my thin ends with each relaxer to eventually eliminate the over-processed scraggly ends overtime.
Scissors I use to Dust My Ends ↓ (Click Below):
2) Spaced Out My Relaxers + Relax Correctly
Lets face it, doing a touch up every 6-8 weeks was the 'norm' for many of us relaxed hair ladies. This was my reality. Any time my new growth popped up, I relaxed my new growth like clockwork. Back then, it was basically that 'unwelcome guest' on my scalp that needed to bounce! LOL
Too, relaxing all the way down to my ends was a regular thing. Processing already processed hair made zero sense, but it was common culture. I mean, I used to sit in relaxer as if it was conditioner not knowing the damage this was causing. No wonder I had thin, weak, over-processed hair!? I had to unlearn all of this.
With time and research, I learned that spacing out my relaxers (every 10-12 weeks) and only processing my new growth (virgin hair), while coating the previously relaxed hair with hair grease, was the healthier way to go. My hair got a much needed break and instantly started to increase in fullness with each relaxer touch-up session. This was a game changer in my relaxer routine.
Relaxer I Use ↓ (Click Below) :
ORS Olive Oil Relaxer - Normal Strength
3) Invest in Quality Treatments/Tools
What's the saying? Put your money where your mouth is...well I did just that! I took the time to research ingredients, go to the Beauty Supply Store and invest in products that I knew would help me in achieving my hair goals.
Not only that, but I grabbed a hooded dryer, wide tooth comb, satin scarf/bonnet etc. to help promote healthier hair. I started using hair treatments, protein and moisture based products, leave-in conditioners which all contributed to the health of my hair.
These products gave my hair the strength, hydration and nourishment it needed in order to combat all the damage over the years. Honestly, I wish Olaplex was around back when I first started my relaxed hair journey because this salon quality product line was everything my hair needed and more!! If you can invest in Olaplex No. 0 + No. 3, I highly recommend it. It certainly takes the guess work out!
Treatment/Tool Faves ↓ (Click Below):
Joico K Pak Reconstructor Treatment
4) Deep Conditioning
This literally became my hair's best friend! Remember, over-processed hair is hair that is s t a r v e d of all its nutrients. Deep conditioning is the best method to feed your strands the nourishment it requires.
For me, deep conditioning after every shampoo was (and still is) mandatory! My coarse dense 4c hair requires it - period! Applying a hair mask, deep conditioner or treatment for 20-30 mins with a heat source on a weekly basis was probably one of the best things I did for my over-processed hair.
This routine not only kept my hair soft, smooth and manageable throughout the week but it helped to prevent breakage while increasing the thickness and overall health of my hair, overtime.
Deep Conditioner Faves ↓ (Click Below):
Silk Elements Megasilk Cholesterol
Shea Moisture Intensive Hydration Hair Masque
5) Protein Will Be Your Friend
Over-processed hair (especially fine hair) requires a dose of protein a little more frequently than hair that is healthier and balanced. My over-processed hair was always super fragile, dry and a tangled mess. Tangled hair and dryness is a common characteristic of over-processed hair as the cuticles have been lifted due to excessive heat styling, improper use of chemicals, etc.
Protein treatments fill in the gaps and openings along the hair shaft while helping to close the cuticles, increasing moisture retention and reducing tangles. Protein increases the hair's ability to accept and hold on to moisture - yup, you read that correctly! Because the gaps along the hair shaft are filled, your hair is better able to preserve moisture assisting you in retaining length. Yes, protein tends to make the hair a bit ridged and rough (this is normal) but following up with a moisture based deep conditioner is a life saver as it will help soften, increase elasticity and make the strands more manageable. Don't forget this step but don't over do it!
Also, hydrolyzed proteins infuse strength into the hair while increasing the diameter of the hair strand. Essentially, protein makes your hair look and feel thicker/fuller with each use. My hair got thicker in just 3 short months of incorporating protein in my hair regimen. This was the boost my hair needed!
Protein Faves ↓ (Click Below) :
Aphogee 2 Minute Reconstructor
Shea Moisture JBCO Hair Masque
6) Lay Off The Heat Tools
Using flat irons, blow dryers, curling irons, etc. can make over-processed hair much worse. I was the type of person to apply heat to dirty hair, day-after-day *rolls eyes* Of course I saw no issue with it, but eventually I noticed my hair getting shorter and shorter year after year. I stopped using these hot tools and soon enough I started to notice a positive difference in the health of my hair.
I opted to air dry after each wash day and my hair has thanked me for it over and over. Giving your hair a much needed break from hot tools will give your strands a chance to rebuild, retain moisture and regain strength. I made a hard decision to save heat styling for special occasions or just relaxer day. Of course, I used it responsibly never forgetting my heat protectant but this sacrifice boosted the health of my hair, tremendously.
7) Pre-poo Before You Shampoo
It's so worth the extra effort!! Coating my hair with an oil/conditioner, or both, prior to shampooing was another small step in combating my over-processed hair. Pre-pooing made a difference because it provided an extra layer of conditioning benefits that my malnourished hair craved.
Penetrating oils can repair dryness and damage caused by heat, chemicals and colouring. After wash day, my hair would always feel softer, smoother, detangled and more manageable when pre-pooing was part of my routine.
Prepoo Oils ↓ (Click Below) :
BONUS: Leave your hair alone. As hard as it may be, this is vital. Keep styling to a minimum to avoid unnecessary breakage. The less you do, the better!
Understand that it will take time for your hair to be repaired to its healthiest state. By the 3rd month, you'll begin to notice more volume and fullness in your hair. However, it will take any where from 6 - 12 months to really get your hair back on track and in tip-top shape.
Give yourself space and grace to grow and understand your hair and its needs. Patience and consistency will definitely be a prerequisite on the journey to rebuilding your hair.
Keep at it - you got this!!
Xo
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