Ingredient Spotlight Pt.4: Hydrolyzed Collagen
Know Your Ingredients Part 4 Monday, December 19, 2016
What is Hydrolyzed Collagen?
Collagen is made up of small peptides obtained through the process of hydrolysis.
What does it do for the hair?
Hydrolyzed Collagen absorbs and temporarily bonds to the hair. Hydrolyzed Collagen aids in fortifying and strengthening the hair from the inside out preventing breakage. It creates a protective shield over the entire hair shaft helping to prevent damage. Hydrolyzed Collagen enhances the appearance of your hair by increasing thickness, sheen, elasticity and softness.
- ORS Olive Oil Replenishing Conditioner
- MillCreek Botanicals Biotin Conditioner
- ORS Hair Mayo
- Cantu Shea Butter Leave-in Repair Cream
- OGX thick & full + Biotin & Collagen Conditioner
Hair is elastic - to put it simple! Having optimal levels of elasticity gives your hair s t r e t c h i n g power that allows your comb to easily move through your hair without breakage from the manipulation. Lack of elasticity causes your hair to snap off and break at every little tension placed upon your hair. So essentially, increasing your elasticity means increasing the moisture levels in your hair.
Improved elasticity not only improves styling and manipulation of the hair but it also reduces premature breakage. Hydrated hair = Improved Elasticity = Less breakage! #Goals
Here are 5 easy ways to help improve the elasticity in your strands:
1. Incorporate Extra Virgin Olive Oil In Your Regimen
Extra Virgin Olive Oil is known to penetrate into the hair cortex up to at least 25%. The fatty acids aid in improving the strength and elasticity of the hair strand. With frequent use as a pre-shampoo or mixed into your deep conditioner, you will notice improved stretching power in your hair.
2. Frequent Washes and Treatments
Wet hair is naturally more elastic than dry hair. Frequent washes and moisture conditioning treatments will help moisten your strands and relax the hydrogen bonds in the cortex improving the hydration levels and elasticity in each strand. Note, proper protein dosages are also needed to resist breakage.
3. Baggying Your Hair
Well moistened hair will return to its original state when stretched, rather than snap off and break when dry. Baggying your ends, or entire head rather, creates an environment where the plastic bag traps heat helping to re-activate your moisturizer. This draws moisture and softness into the hair thus increasing your hair's ability to stretch beyond its original length and return to its original state without breaking.
4. LOC/LCO Method
The liquid, oil, cream & liquid, cream, oil methods are ideal for locking moisture into the strands. The retained moisture enhances the elasticity while easing possible stress in manipulation and friction.
5. Steaming vs. Hooded Dryer
Steaming releases warm water vapours as opposed to dry heat accompanied by hooded dryers. While steaming, the warm water vapours easily seep into the strands increasing hydration and the penetration of the conditioner. Remember, increased elasticity will be present in effectively moistened hair.
*References: Science of Black Hair - Elasticity and Textured Fibers pg.43
Tresemmé with Coconut Milk & Aloe Vera Botanique Nourish & Replenish Conditioner
Product Review Sunday, December 04, 2016
Promises: Our specially crafted formulas include a botanical blend of Coconut milk and Aloe Vera. The system gently cleanses while smoothing and nourishing hair to leave it feeling moisturized and beautifully soft. No paragons. No dyes. Silicone-free. Safe for colour treated hair.
Directions: Start with TRESemmé Botanique Nourish & Replenish Shampoo. Squeeze a generous amount of conditioner into palm and rub hands together. Apply to damp hair focusing on ends to mid-lengths first. Then work any remaining conditioner up towards the roots. Leave in for 2-3 minutes then rinse thoroughly. To maximize nourishment and a moisturized feeling follow with TRESemmé Botanique collection treatment products.
Ingredients: Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract, Fragrance (Perfume), Behentrimonium Chloride, Dipropylene Glycol, Lactic Acid, Potassium Chloride, Disodium EDTA, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone.
Truth: My sister recommended this conditioner for me to try out as a co-wash and I fell in love with it. Not only does it moisturize my 4b/c relaxed hair, but it easily detangles and smooths out my hair so well without the use of silicones! I have used it as a leave-in conditioner mixed with water and a bit of glycerin in a spray bottle - my hair just loves it. My new growth is thanking me! This combination helps to increase and retain the moisture in my hair while I protective style throughout the week. My leave-in mixture has made my hair much more manageable. I highly recommend this as a co-wash, for those who are all about that "'cone-free" life! It's also perfect for those who are looking for a daily moisturizing spritz!
Pros:
Price: $5.96 CAD 26 Fl. Oz.
Truth: My sister recommended this conditioner for me to try out as a co-wash and I fell in love with it. Not only does it moisturize my 4b/c relaxed hair, but it easily detangles and smooths out my hair so well without the use of silicones! I have used it as a leave-in conditioner mixed with water and a bit of glycerin in a spray bottle - my hair just loves it. My new growth is thanking me! This combination helps to increase and retain the moisture in my hair while I protective style throughout the week. My leave-in mixture has made my hair much more manageable. I highly recommend this as a co-wash, for those who are all about that "'cone-free" life! It's also perfect for those who are looking for a daily moisturizing spritz!
Pros:
- Thick in consistency
- Softening
- Great for new growth
- Detangling and smooths the cuticle
- Inexpensive
- NA
Hairlicious Rating:
Here are my 4 go-to styles I've been rocking while wearing my crochet braids. They are super easy, cute, great for different occassions and gentle on the scalp.
My absolute favourites would be the Top Knot and the Side Flat Twist. Here is a quick pictorial of how I create these two styles:
Step 1: I place my hair accessories in my braids in areas that I like. You can get them at any Beauty Supply Store.
Step 2: I then start my flat twist from the right ear taking a few braids at a time.
Step 3: I continue twisting until I reach the left side all the way down to the ends.
Step 4: I grab a few bobby pins to secure the flat twist at the back. All done!
Top Knot
Step 1: I grab a small section of hair (6-7 braids) at the top of my head.
Step 2: I begin to twist the small section of braids around in a clock wise motion. Tucking in any braids that may stick/pop out.
Step 3: I secure it with 1-2 bobby pins and thats it! All Done.
Wearing my hair down with a side part is a classy and elegant go-to look (perfect for the holidays) that doesn't require any steps to achieve - simply part & go!
My other simple style, with the middle part and two twists at the side, is very easy and chic (follow steps from side flat twist and repeat steps on the left and right side, use bobby pins to secure- done!).
I'm having a lot of fun with my braids and the variety of styles are endless!♥
Promises: Pantene responds to your hair's structure to help bring out the beauty that's yours alone.
Pantene Truly Relaxed Line is a line of products designed to provide moisture for relaxed hair. The relaxing process can be particularly damaging so each strand needs gentle cleansing with protection against dryness and breakage so you can grow healthy-looking hair.
Pantene's oil enriched Truly Relaxed Conditioner moisturizes hair. Relaxed hair is soft, tame and strong against future damage.
Directions: Massage into wet hair after shampooing. Start at tips and work toward roots. Leave-in for 2 minutes, rinse thoroughly. Gentle enough for relaxed or colour-treated hair.
Ingredients: Water, Stearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetyl Alcohol, Fragrance, Bis-aminopropyl, Dimethicone, Benzyl Ethyl Ether, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone.
Truth: Absolutely amazing! This conditioner truly delivers. The results are consistent whether I am freshly relaxed or 12 weeks post relaxer. I use it strictly for co-washing. It has a great thick creamy consistency that applies easily to my hair. I love the slip and the detangling abilities it provides for my coarse relaxed hair. My hair air dries so soft, silky and full of volume - every time!
Pros:
- Fresh scent
- Slip with detangling abilities
- Softening
- Inexpensive
- Can only be found at some beauty supply store.
Hairlicious Rating: (5/5) Excellent
Something different indeed!
Since the end of Summer '16, I've been doing a bit of research on a protective style that would:
- give me a break from my hair for a few weeks
- allow me access to my scalp
- be affordable
- lightweight (no tension to the scalp)
- quick/fast to install
- fun to style
The other day I posted a picture of my new protective style on Instagram and received requests to blog about this new do!
A photo posted by Sunshyne☀️ (@hairlicious) on
My cousin was able to bless me with her skills (it was a first time for the both of us *Shhhh*) and we had so much fun doing it! She did my cornrows and then crocheted the individual braids. My cousin followed all the steps in the video below from Kiitana, to braid my hair in the "X" pattern. She crocheted my ends into the braids itself (to make it more compact). I have about 10 cornrows from ear-to-ear. The entire process took approximately 2 hours.
Below is the make and style of the 3D Braid that I used. I love the fact that the braid is in a cube-like form. It's 3 dimensional look makes it very unique and chic! It reminds me of the 90's box braids style - which I love so much!
I got colour 1B in 18" inches. It's extremely lightweight yet very textured and thick. What's also unique about this hair is that it's twisted at the ends helping to prevent the braid from unraveling. I used a total of 5.5 packs. Each pack was $10.99 CAD at the Beauty Supply Store.
Below is the crochet needle I used and an up-close look at the 3D crochet braid with loop:
Night-time care:
I picked up this spandex cap to protect my crochet braids at night. I use a long rectangular satin scarf around the perimeter of my hairline to keep it neat and fresh everyday. After I tie my scarf, I then tuck all of my ends into the spandex bonnet and pull it over to the top of my head. The bonnet is so stretchy with a satin feel and it fits all of my braids perfectly. I picked this up for $4.99 CAD at the Beauty Supply Store.
Results:
Overall I'm loving this fall/winter protective style!!! My hair is tucked away and I don't have to think about it for a while. Plus, the hubby approves the new look :) I always wanted box braids but couldn't stand the thought of sitting down for 6-7 hours and worrying about my hair being dried out by the "braid hair". With these crochet braids, I can now spray my scalp and new growth with my Scurl No Drip (maybe every 2 days) with ease knowing that my hair will not dry out.
To be honest my scalp is not used to the "tension", though it is mild. What can I say? I'm tender-headed! I know the feeling will pass over the next couple of days so I'm not worried. Anyway, I love how quick and easy it is to style-and-go! I think I will leave it in for approximately 3-4 weeks. I'm currently 13 weeks post relaxer so I'll probably remove the braids early December and relax shortly after.
Just wanted to share!
Creme of Nature Mango & Shea Butter Ultra-Moisturizing Shampoo and Conditioner
Creme Of Nature Tuesday, November 08, 2016
Creme of Nature Mango & Shea Butter Ultra-Moisturizing Shampoo - For Dehydrated Hair
Promises: Creme of Nature Mango & Shea Butter Ultra-Moisturizing Shampoo is enriched with certified natural mango and shea butter. This formula gently cleanses and conditions while infusing dehydrated hair with moisture.
Directions:
Wet hair. Apply shampoo and work into lather. Rinse thoroughly. Repeat. Next, condition with Creme of Nature Mango & Shea Butter Ultra-Moisturizing conditioner.
Ingredients: Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamide DIPA, Parfum (Fragrance), Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Ployquaternium-10, Glycol Distearate, Glycol Stearate, Amodimethicone, Glycerin, Isostearyl Ethylimidazolinium Ethosulfate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Propylene Glycol, Limonene Linalool, Citral, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylparaben, Yellow 6 (CI 15985), red 4 (CI 14700)
*Mango & Shea Butter are certified natural ingredients
Truth: The enticing titles "Ultra-Moisturizing" & "For Dehydrated Hair" captured my attention to want to try this shampoo for my high porosity relaxed 4b/c hair. After many washes with this shampoo I can actually say that it's very moisturizing and slippy despite having two surfactants (i.e. Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Cocamidopropyl Betaine) in the ingredients. Though it does contain "Amodimethicone", a non-water soluble silicone, further down in the ingredient list there are two surfactants present in the ingredients. With the presence of surfactants, the "Amodimethicone" will not stay deposited on the hair. I love the fact that the shampoo is opaque in colour with an orange glossy appearance, not to mention it smells very fruity/tropical. The triple dosage of Mango Seed Butter, Shea Oil and Shea Butter really help to intensify the conditioning effect in the shampoo making my hair feel so soft and conditioned.
Pros:
- Fruity Tropical Scent
- Slip while rinsing out the shampoo
- Detangling abilities
- Conditioning
- Contains silicone
- Two surfactants
Hairlicious Rating: (4/5) Very Good
Promises: Pamper your hair with Creme of Nature Ultra-Moisturizing Conditioner with certified natural Mango and Shea Butter. This formula deeply moisturizes and softens hair while adding shine.
Directions: After shampooing with Creme of Nature Mango & Shea Butter Ultra-Moisturizing shampoo, apply a generous amount to hair and comb through for even distribution. Rinse then style. For deeper conditioning, after applying conditioner, proceed with hair steaming or sit under hooded dryer with plastic cap for 5-10 minutes.
Ingredients: Aqua, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Behentrimonium Chloride, Amodimethicone, Parfume (Fragrance), Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Olea Europe (Olive) Fruit Oil, Phenyl Trimethicone, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernal Oil, Panthenol, Cetrimonium Chloride, Trideceth-12, Cera Alba (Beeswax (Cire D'abeille)), Citric Acid, Isopropyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Limonene, Linalool, Citral, Yellow 6 (CI 15985), Yellow 5 (CI 19140), Red 4 (CI 14700)
*Mango & Shea Butter are certified natural ingredients
Truth: I've used this conditioner as a deep conditioner with and without oils for 20-30 mins using heat many times. Both methods worked out good. It spreads and penetrates easily into my strands making my hair feel soft. It has the same tropical fruity scent as the conditioner (this may bother some who are sensitive to scented products). Now, here's the part that disappoints me... I always look for the "moisture" and "slip" factor in a DC and this conditioner has fallen short - unfortunately. Slip is important as it helps me detangle my hair while in and out of the shower, without the use of heavy manipulation on my hair. With this conditioner, the slip factor is just not there for me!
Pros:
Price: $4.99 CAD 12 Fl. Oz.
Ingredients: Aqua, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Behentrimonium Chloride, Amodimethicone, Parfume (Fragrance), Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Olea Europe (Olive) Fruit Oil, Phenyl Trimethicone, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernal Oil, Panthenol, Cetrimonium Chloride, Trideceth-12, Cera Alba (Beeswax (Cire D'abeille)), Citric Acid, Isopropyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Limonene, Linalool, Citral, Yellow 6 (CI 15985), Yellow 5 (CI 19140), Red 4 (CI 14700)
*Mango & Shea Butter are certified natural ingredients
Truth: I've used this conditioner as a deep conditioner with and without oils for 20-30 mins using heat many times. Both methods worked out good. It spreads and penetrates easily into my strands making my hair feel soft. It has the same tropical fruity scent as the conditioner (this may bother some who are sensitive to scented products). Now, here's the part that disappoints me... I always look for the "moisture" and "slip" factor in a DC and this conditioner has fallen short - unfortunately. Slip is important as it helps me detangle my hair while in and out of the shower, without the use of heavy manipulation on my hair. With this conditioner, the slip factor is just not there for me!
Pros:
- Softens hair
- Fruity Tropical scent
- No slip
- No Detangling abilities
Hairlicious Rating: (3/5) Okay
How To Celebrate Your Relaxed Hair When Everyone Is Going Natural!
Hair Health Monday, October 31, 2016
Having relaxed hair nowadays appears to be rapidly becoming a "thing of the past" as many ladies are returning to their natural hair. While this is great news, many ladies (like myself) still choose to remain relaxed, for various reasons.
As a relaxed haired individual, I frequently hear the common phrase "when are you going natural?" I then think to myself, "am I supposed to go natural?""is going natural expected of me?" and then it dawns on me "hey? I am still enjoying my relaxed hair! I don't feel the need to return to my natural hair right now". This lead me to think that though many have decided to go natural, it's important for me not to forget all the fantastic things I love about my relaxed hair, the way it is!
Here are 7 ways to Celebrate your Relaxed Hair:
As a relaxed haired individual, I frequently hear the common phrase "when are you going natural?" I then think to myself, "am I supposed to go natural?""is going natural expected of me?" and then it dawns on me "hey? I am still enjoying my relaxed hair! I don't feel the need to return to my natural hair right now". This lead me to think that though many have decided to go natural, it's important for me not to forget all the fantastic things I love about my relaxed hair, the way it is!
Here are 7 ways to Celebrate your Relaxed Hair:
- Focus on the reason why you choose to remain relaxed. Make an effort to remind yourself of these reasons - often.
- Write a “love list” about your hair. Invest energy on what you like/love about your hair while relaxed. Highlight all the things that you are grateful for i.e. hairstyles that you love on your hair, products that agree with your hair, etc. Whatever it is, write it down! Find reasons why you truly love your hair in its relaxed state.
- Zone in on your goals that you would like to achieve while relaxed. Keep your eye on the prize.
- Reward yourself, and your hair, with a product or tool you’ve been eyeing for months.
- Give your hair the gift of extra time. Pamper your hair will all the things it loves i.e. deep conditioning with your favourite DC, oil treatment, or prepping your hair for your favourite hairstyle.
- Put some happy in your hair journey. Find a gorgeous photo of relaxed hair that you love, i.e. hair idol, and make it your wallpaper on your computer, smartphone or stick it on your vision board to remind you of how beautiful relaxed hair is.
- Photoshoot! Nothing like a hot selfie to get you going. Make it fun, make it you! You”ll be glad you documented the moment.
Celebrate your relaxed hair and all the joy it brings!
Let's face it, knowing your hair type (i.e. 3c, 4a, 4b, etc.) is great as it allows you to discover your hair texture, curl pattern, density etc. However, discovering your Hair Porosity level is imperative to getting the most out of your hair journey. Hair porosity is a simple concept yet very powerful in revealing certain characteristic about your hair. Learning what porosity level you have, will provide you with direction on how to treat and take care of your hair - effectively!
Understanding your hair porosity level can maximize the effectiveness of your hair routine and improve the product and technique selection for your hair.
Understanding your hair porosity level can maximize the effectiveness of your hair routine and improve the product and technique selection for your hair.
Hair Porosity is your hair's ability to absorb moisture and retain it. It's just that simple! There are three (3) porosity levels to consider: low, normal, high.
Low Porosity?
Hair cuticles lay flat and tight around the cortex making it challenging for moisture to enter and escape the hair cuticle. The cuticle is quite resistant to opening and readily accepting water. Opening the cuticle may be troublesome, but once it's open, it will accept, hold on/ retain moisture for a long period of time.
Normal Porosity?
Hair cuticles lay flat yet open and close easily to accept and retain moisture. Hair maintains elasticity.
High Porosity?
Hair cuticles have holes and damage along the hair shaft allowing moisture to escape through the hair cuticle easily. Moisture retention is low and the hair feels dry and coarse. This is the result of chemically treated hair or heat damage.
Now, let's zone in on Low and High porosity as these levels require the most maintenance!
Characteristics of Low Porosity Hair
Tips on How to Take Care of Low Porosity Hair
- Takes long to dry
- Hard time absorbing moisture
- Retains moisture really well once accepted
- Tend to resist chemical services i.e. colour, relaxers
- Steam frequently - Warm steam vapours help to raise the cuticles and allow the deep conditioner to absorb easily into the hair shaft.
- Moisturize on damp hair - This allows the cuticles to raise slightly thus giving your moisturizer the chance to penetrate the hair strands. Once the hair receives the moisture, it will hold on to it very well.
- Baggy your hair often - Baggying will help raise the cuticles drawing moisture into the hair
- Always use heat when you deep condition - Heat allows the hair cuticles to raise/open. The deep conditioner can then easily penetrate into the hair cortex giving nutrients i.e. moisture, protein etc. to the hair strands.
- Clarify often - 2-3x/month will help lift the hair cuticles allowing any deep conditioners, leave-ins, moisturizers to penetrate easily.
- Dries very quickly after washing
- Tangles easily
- Feels dry and/or brittle after moisturizing
- Absorbs products easily
- Chemical treatments process fast
Tips on How to Take Care of High Porosity Hair:
- Add a mixture of Water and Aloe Vera Juice in a spray bottle (1/4 AVJ, 3/4 Water). Use this before adding your leave-in conditioner.
- Add 1-2 tsps of Aloe Vera Juice in your deep conditioner to lower the pH balance of the conditioner.
- Do an Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse 1x/week after you shampoo or co-wash your hair. Apple Cider Vinegar is known to lower the pH balance in the hair and close the cuticles allowing your hair to hold on to moisture.
- Use Roux Porosity Control Conditioner weekly as a quick condition or 1 tbsp in your moisturizing deep conditioner.
- Use a protein reconstructor weekly or biweekly to fill the cracks along the hair shaft allowing the hair to absorb and retain moisture.
Knowing your Hair Porosity level gives you the power to transform your hair into healthier well-moisturized hair.
Now Take The Tests!
Now Take The Tests!
Grab a shed strand of hair. With your fingers, slide up the strand starting from the ends to the scalp - backwards. If your fingers move easily up the strand and it feels dense - you have non porous hair aka low porosity hair. If it feels smooth, you have normal porosity hair. If it feels rough, bumpy or it breaks, you have porous hair aka high porosity hair.
What is your Hair Porosity Level?
Having a concrete wash day regimen is imperative to a successful hair journey! Through excessive trial and error over the years, I have managed to find a routine that has worked for my hair allowing me to get to my goal and maintain it.
Giving my hair a weekly dose of both moisture and protein has allowed my hair to maintain moisture and strength while decreasing breakage - thus retaining length. Though I have my staple products, I like to switch up my products every now and then, but I always keep the same routine - no matter what.
I have updated my regimen as I no longer co-wash on Saturdays. So instead of having 3 wash days, I only have two (Sundays and Thursdays) - max! I find that my hair no longer needs that extra dose of moisture.
SUNDAYS
Sundays:
→ Prepoo with a light protein for 15-20 mins with a heat cap, rinse
→ Shampoo
→ Deep Condition with a moisturizing conditioner for 25-30 mins with heat, rinse
→ Apply Leave-in and lightly comb through
→ Air dry with the Scarf Method (if needed)
→ Moisturize and seal. Apply JBCO to my scalp in sections (optional)
THURSDAYS
Thursdays:
→ Deep Condition on dry hair with a moisturizing treatment/oil for 25-30mins.
→ Co-wash with a Moisturizing Conditioner
→ Apply Leave-ins and lightly comb through
→ Air dry with the Scarf Method
→ Moisturize and seal. Apply JBCO to my scalp in sections (optional)
Daily:
→ Moisturize in sections & seal in sections. Bun my hair.
Others:
- Relax every 10-12 weeks
- Dust/trim when needed (approx every 4-6 months)
- Baggy my ends when dry
- Light Protein Treatment 1x/week
- Clarify 1-2x/month
- Black Tea Rinse for shedding (when needed)
- Wear protective styles 99% (buns)