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Does your hair constantly feel dry after you've moisturized it?Does your hair feel dry and brittle despite the amount of times you deep condition?
Is your hair dry and frizzy throughout the day?
Does your hair hold a style/curl well?
If you answered "yes" to all of these 4 questions, you may be suffering from hair porosity issues. It's O.K! At one point I answered "yes" to these questions and there are solutions out there!
Porosity is the hair's ability to absorb moisture. This is determined by the condition of the hair's cuticle layer (the overlapping scales of the hair shaft), and is rated as low, normal, and high. With normal healthy hair, the cuticle is compact and prevents the penetration of the hair shaft by moisture (both moisture going in & moisture coming out). When the cuticle is too compact it prevents the penetration of moisture, meaning it has low porosity. Hair with low porosity is harder to process, and is resistant to hair color and perms. Low porosity hair must usually be softened before chemical services. Hair with high porosity is hair whose cuticle layer is open and the hair too-readily absorbs moisture. Overly-porous hair also releases moisture easily and becomes dry and is prone to damage. Perms and straighteners will process much faster in high-porosity hair. Acidic treatments can temporarily correct porosity issues.
Quick Solutions:
Porosity is the hair's ability to absorb moisture. This is determined by the condition of the hair's cuticle layer (the overlapping scales of the hair shaft), and is rated as low, normal, and high. With normal healthy hair, the cuticle is compact and prevents the penetration of the hair shaft by moisture (both moisture going in & moisture coming out). When the cuticle is too compact it prevents the penetration of moisture, meaning it has low porosity. Hair with low porosity is harder to process, and is resistant to hair color and perms. Low porosity hair must usually be softened before chemical services. Hair with high porosity is hair whose cuticle layer is open and the hair too-readily absorbs moisture. Overly-porous hair also releases moisture easily and becomes dry and is prone to damage. Perms and straighteners will process much faster in high-porosity hair. Acidic treatments can temporarily correct porosity issues.
Quick Solutions:
1. Get an Acid Shampoo & Conditioner:
Roux Porosity Shampoo & Conditioner, Elasta QP Creme Conditioning Shampoo
2. Do an Acidic Rinse:
Apple Cider Vinegar (Mix 1/4 cup of apple cider vinegar with 2 cups of cool water. Poor this mixture over the hair as a final rinse after shampooing & conditioning. Rinse in cool water.)
3. Do a light Protein Treatment (Products with wheat protein like Mizani Moisturefuse mends individual exterior scales along the cuticle)
Kinky, coiled, or coarse African American hair needs to be moisturized on the regular. moisture provides the hair with more elasticity, it hydrates the hair shaft, helps prevent breakage & spilt ends, and of course combat the source of dryness! Whether your natural, relaxed, or have chemically processed hair, a lightweight moisturizer is needed to soften and replaced lost moisture. The amount of times you apply your water based moisturizer to your hair, strictly depends on how well your hair is able to retain moisture. It is best to moisturize the hair once or twice per day. For example, I apply my moisturizer (Wave Nouveau) 2x daily, once in the morning and once at night and then seal with an oil (Safflower oil). I find that my hair is a lot more moist overall when adding this to my daily maintenance.A good moisturizer will not contain alcohol and protein. These ingredients tend to make the hair dry and hard. Also, look out for Mineral oil, petrolatum or lanolin! These products are not good because they don't penetrate the hair. The first ingredient must be WATER not an OIL. Some products might say Water, Purified Water or Aqua as the first ingredient and thats good! Water is natures best moisturizer.
Remember, oil is NOT A MOISTURIZER. It helps seals in the water based moisturizer. If no moisture is applied to the hair, the oil will just coat and sit on top of the hair.
Examples of water based moisturizers:
Lusters S-curl No drip, Care Free Curl Gold Instant Activator, Wave Nouveau Moistuizing Finshing Lotion, Organic Root Stimulator (ORS) olive oil & carrot oil etc.
Lusters S-curl No drip, Care Free Curl Gold Instant Activator, Wave Nouveau Moistuizing Finshing Lotion, Organic Root Stimulator (ORS) olive oil & carrot oil etc.
Examples of the oils you can use to seal in the moisture:
Extra Virgin Coconut oil, Extra Virgin Olive oil, Castor oil, Jojoba oil etc.
A little oil goes a long way! apply a quarter size amount of oil to the ends of your hair and then work your way up. Your ends need the most moisture to be locked in, so start there that way you won't forget! You will also notice that your hair will have incredible shine =)
What does Cowashing mean? It's when you wash your hair with conditioner instead of shampoo as a way of increasing the moisture level in your hair.
Last night I decided to co-wash since my hair felt like it needed a lil moisture boost. I'm also 6 weeks post with nuff growth...lol... so this was the best time for me to co-wash! Here are the steps that I took:
1. Applied Herbal Essences Replenishing Conditioner & Herbal Essences Long Term Relationship to dry hair concentrating on the ends.
2. Applied 2 hand fulls of EVOO (Extra Virgin Olive Oil) to hair and especially on my ends for extra lubrication.
3. Put on plastic cap for 1 hr 30 mins with towel over it for extra heat.
4. Rinsed out and washed hair with Suave Tropical Coconut Conditioner.
5. Towel dried hair & applied thin layer of EVOO over damp hair (like a leave-in).
6. Air dried with Elasta QP HTWO on hairline.
Let me tell you that after this experience I learned that my hair lovesssss EVOO with conditioner. My hair turned out great. The smoothness was there, it was extremely soft I had to ask myself " Is this really my hair?", Im serious! I was very happy with the results. I guess its really true what Cathy Howse says, Oil is necessary to lubricate the hair and Olive oil, due to its molecular structure, is the best oil for penetration into the hair shaft. It's now my hair staple :)
Coconut oil has been on my mind a lot lately since I've added it to my Hairlicious Humectante Conditioner. I've used it to seal in my moisturizer and it wonderful as a topical hair product. That got me thinking, "What would it be like if I took it internally?" I came across a thread in my favourite forum, Black Hair Media Forum, addressing the benefits of taking 1 tsp of Organic Virgin Coconut Oil daily.
There has been some misconceptions about Coconut Oil circulating prevent many people from indigesting what is actually good for them. The statement that Coconut Oil, a saturated fat, contributes to heart disease is a bad rap given to NATURAL saturated fats by big corps marketing their 'newer' liquid oils. It is the UNSATURATED fats and Hydrogenated oils that are primarily involved in heart disease, not the saturated fats, as you have been led to believe. There are loads of information pertaining to WHY Coconut Oil is The BEST Oil to consume.
Ok so theres no doubt that Coconut Oil is a Saturated Fat, however it is also a Medium Chain Fatty Acid (MCFAs). MCFAs are smaller. They permeate cell membranes easily, and do not require lipoproteins or special enzymes to be utilized effectively by your body. MCFAs are easily digested, thus putting less strain on your digestive system. This is especially important for those with digestive or metabolic concerns. MCFAs are sent directly to your liver, where they are immediately converted into energy rather than being stored as fat so this can actually help stimulate your body's metabolism, leading to weight loss!! In contrast, most common vegetable or seed oils are comprised of long chain fatty acids. Long-chain fatty acids are not as healthy for you as the MCFAs in coconut oil. LCFAs are difficult for the body to break down (they must be packaged with lipoproteins or carrier proteins and require special enzymes for digestion). LCFAs put more strain on the pancreas, the liver and the entire digestive system. LCFAs are predominantly stored in the body as fat (That's why most people buy into the myth that fats are "fattening".) LCFAs can be deposited within arteries in lipid forms such as cholesterol.
So enough of the "myths" lets get into the BENEFITS, which are second to none.
Benefits of Coconut Oil:
- Kills viruses that cause influenza, herpes, measles, hepatitis C, SARS, AIDS, and other illnesses.
- Kills bacteria that cause ulcers, throat infections, urinary tract infections, gum disease and cavities, pneumonia, and gonorrhea, and other diseases.
- Kills fungi and yeasts that cause candidiasis, ringworm, athlete's foot, thrush, diaper rash, and other infections.
- Expels or kills tapeworms, lice, giardia, and other parasites.
- Provides a nutritional source of quick energy.
- Boosts energy and endurance, enhancing physical and athletic performance.
- Improves digestion and absorption of other nutrients including vitamins, minerals, and amino acids.
- Improves insulin secretion and utilization of blood glucose.
- Relieves stress on pancreas and enzyme systems of the body.
- Reduces symptoms associated with pancreatitis.
- Helps relieve symptoms and reduce health risks associated with diabetes.
- Reduces problems associated with malabsorption syndrome and cystic fibrosis.
- Improves calcium and magnesium absorption and supports the development of strong bones and teeth.
- Helps protect against osteoporosis.
- Helps relieve symptoms associated with gallbladder disease.
- Relieves symptoms associated with Crohn's disease, ulcerative colitis, and stomach ulcers.
- Improves digestion and bowel function.
- Relieves pain and irritation caused by hemorrhoids.
- Reduces inflammation.
- Supports tissue healing and repair.
- Supports and aids immune system function.
- Helps protect the body from breast, colon, and other cancers.
- Is heart healthy; improves cholesterol ratio reducing risk of heart disease.
- Protects arteries from injury that causes atherosclerosis and thus protects against heart disease.
- Helps prevent periodontal disease and tooth decay.
- Functions as a protective antioxidant.
- Helps to protect the body from harmful free radicals that promote premature aging and degenerative disease.
- Does not deplete the body's antioxidant reserves like other oils do.
- Improves utilization of essential fatty acids and protects them from oxidation.
- Helps relieve symptoms associated with chronic fatigue syndrome.
- Relieves symptoms associated with benign prostatic hyperplasia (prostate enlargement).
- Reduces epileptic seizures.
- Helps protect against kidney disease and bladder infections.
- Dissolves kidney stones.
- Helps prevent liver disease.
- Is lower in calories than all other fats.
- Supports thyroid function.
- Promotes loss of excess weight by increasing metabolic rate.
- Is utilized by the body to produce energy in preference to being stored as body fat like other dietary fats.
- Helps prevent obesity and overweight problems.
- Applied topically helps to form a chemical barrier on the skin to ward of infection.
- Reduces symptoms associated the psoriasis, eczema, and dermatitis.
- Supports the natural chemical balance of the skin.
- Softens skin and helps relieve dryness and flaking.
- Prevents wrinkles, sagging skin, and age spots.
- Promotes healthy looking hair and complexion.
- Provides protection form damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation form the sun.
- Helps control dandruff.
- Does not form harmful by-products when heated to normal cooking temperature like other vegetable oils do.
- Has no harmful or discomforting side effects.
- Is completely non-toxic to humans.
Many ladies on the hair forum have seen amazing results, for example a better digestive system, better overall skin appearance, scars and pimples virtually gone!! and of course weight loss. If that isn't enough to try it I don't know what is =).
** If your going to be taking it internally, make sure its CERTIFIED ORGANIC, VIRGIN, UNREFINED, NO BLEACHING, NO DEODORIZATION, NO HYDROGENATION **
So today was my wash day and I was so anxious to try out my lastest creation "Hairlicious Humectante". Its filled with many natural oils, moisturizers, etc. which is perfect for my hair type (4ab..mostly b though). I washed my hair as usual, using Roux Porosity Control Shampoo follwed by the Porosity Control Conditioner for 3mins. For some reason I felt like my hair needed it, so I used it. After the 3 min conditioner I rinsed that out, towel blotted my hair and then applied "My Special Mix" to my hair as if I was relaxing it with an applicator brush ( Got that tip from ManeandChic..thanks girl!) which made it wayyyy easier. Once I was done, the roots of my hair to the tips was covered with the conditioner =) I made sure the ends were covered in conditioner as well. I then pilled all the hair on top of my head, put on a plastic cap and went under the hooded dryer for 25mins. I rinsed out the conditioner about 20mins later just so that it could sit a little longer on my head to really seep into the hair shaft. I washed it out in the shower realizing that my hair felt different. It was much softer then usual! I DIDNT get too happy just as yet because there has been times where I have felt the "softness" while in the shower and then once the hair dries its crispy as ever..lol.
After washing it out, I towel dried and applied my Elasta QP Htwo leave in on the hairline so that my edges can lay flat once dried. I didn't want to put any leave-ins in my hair since I was testing out Hairlicious Humectante on my hair without any products over it. As my hair got a little more dry, I started to detangle my hair and to my surprise my hair was soft as cotton..I swear to you. It was heavenly!!! I continued to detangle and then left it to airdry a little more. Once my hair was completely dried, the moisture level of my hair was absolutely amazing...and this was before I moisturized and sealed. The ends definately felt lubricated, usual it never feels this way. I have never experienced this before. Im totally hooked on this new discovery. Right now its about 6pm, I washed out the conditioner @ 12pm (noon...6 hrs ago) and the roots, hair and ends of my hair are still moist!!!
The only thing that I would probably change next time is to eliminate the essential oils/stimulants because I felt no tingles in my scalp :-( but thats ok I can always add them to my Hawaiian Silky 14in1 scalp spray, which is very good for taming tough roots while stretching.
Hairlicious Rating :
(5/5) ** So good it Made me want to sing **..lol
After washing it out, I towel dried and applied my Elasta QP Htwo leave in on the hairline so that my edges can lay flat once dried. I didn't want to put any leave-ins in my hair since I was testing out Hairlicious Humectante on my hair without any products over it. As my hair got a little more dry, I started to detangle my hair and to my surprise my hair was soft as cotton..I swear to you. It was heavenly!!! I continued to detangle and then left it to airdry a little more. Once my hair was completely dried, the moisture level of my hair was absolutely amazing...and this was before I moisturized and sealed. The ends definately felt lubricated, usual it never feels this way. I have never experienced this before. Im totally hooked on this new discovery. Right now its about 6pm, I washed out the conditioner @ 12pm (noon...6 hrs ago) and the roots, hair and ends of my hair are still moist!!!
The only thing that I would probably change next time is to eliminate the essential oils/stimulants because I felt no tingles in my scalp :-( but thats ok I can always add them to my Hawaiian Silky 14in1 scalp spray, which is very good for taming tough roots while stretching.
Hairlicious Rating :
(5/5) ** So good it Made me want to sing **..lol
I was reading the Cathy Howse website ( http://www.ubhpublications.com/ ) last night (she updated it by the way and she looks fab!) and I noticed that her deep conditioner that many people love so much as a lot of natural oils in it. She states that we put too much emphasis on our scalps and that the natural oils are not needed for the scalp because the sebaceous glands function in that area of the head. The scalp takes care of itself! However, Cathy Howse also states that its the oldest hair on our heads that needs oil, not the scalp. Therefore our oil should be applied with heat to penetrate our dry hair shaft.
Remember to preserve something dead you need to keep it soft and lubricated. So when adding oils to your deep conditioner you are ALSO getting a Hot Oil treatment if you think about it ..YAY! (if you go under the dryer for your Deep Conditioning). Cathy also mentions that the best conditioner for our hair contains protein to strengthen and repair, oils to lubricate and a stimulant.
When reading this I was thinking on how I can incorporate those 3 key points (strengthen and repair, oils to lubricate and a stimulant) to my hair care regimen. So I started to bring out my "concoction experimenting" container and applicator brush along with all my oils, conditioners, and stimulant...and I came up with my new deep conditioner called Hairlicious Humectante! lol. Here are the ingredients:
4 tsp of 100% Virgin Coconut Oil (lubricate)
7 tsp of 100% Extra Virgin Olive Oil (lubricate)
4 tsp of Jamaican Black Castor Oil (which also contains Pure Castor oil Grapeseed oil and Carrot oil) (lubricate)
4 tsp of 100% Pure Glycerin (draws in nautral moisture of the hair)
4 tsp of Dabur Vatika Oil (lubricate)
3 tsp of Always Natural moisturizing conditioner
3 tsp of Cream of Nature Nourishing conditioner (provides hair with strength & repair damage)
4 tsp of AtOne Botanical Reconstructor conditioner (provides hair with strength & repairs damage)
4 tsp of Elasta QP DPR-11
5 tsp of 100% Pure Natural Honey (Acts as a humectante to draw in more moisture and thickens the consitancy of the mix)
8-10 drops of Now (the brand) Pure Peppermint Oil (stimulant)
8-10 drops of Rosemary Oil (stimulant) ** Just Added**
Mix thoroughly until it turns a thick light yellow. Pore the mix into a old container (I used an old EQP DPR-11 bottle) and seal it. This mix will fill a little more than half the bottle of a DPR-11 container.
My wash day is tomorrow (Thursday) so I will definately be trying to out to see how my hair reacts to it. Im going to wash first and then sit under the dryer for about 25-30mins on medium heat and then rinse and apply leave-ins. Right now Im so anxious because I really need a conditioner that will moisturize, lubricate and strengthen all at the same time. We'll see how it goes...cross your fingers.
Remember to preserve something dead you need to keep it soft and lubricated. So when adding oils to your deep conditioner you are ALSO getting a Hot Oil treatment if you think about it ..YAY! (if you go under the dryer for your Deep Conditioning). Cathy also mentions that the best conditioner for our hair contains protein to strengthen and repair, oils to lubricate and a stimulant.
When reading this I was thinking on how I can incorporate those 3 key points (strengthen and repair, oils to lubricate and a stimulant) to my hair care regimen. So I started to bring out my "concoction experimenting" container and applicator brush along with all my oils, conditioners, and stimulant...and I came up with my new deep conditioner called Hairlicious Humectante! lol. Here are the ingredients:
4 tsp of 100% Virgin Coconut Oil (lubricate)
7 tsp of 100% Extra Virgin Olive Oil (lubricate)
4 tsp of Jamaican Black Castor Oil (which also contains Pure Castor oil Grapeseed oil and Carrot oil) (lubricate)
4 tsp of 100% Pure Glycerin (draws in nautral moisture of the hair)
4 tsp of Dabur Vatika Oil (lubricate)
3 tsp of Always Natural moisturizing conditioner
3 tsp of Cream of Nature Nourishing conditioner (provides hair with strength & repair damage)
4 tsp of AtOne Botanical Reconstructor conditioner (provides hair with strength & repairs damage)
4 tsp of Elasta QP DPR-11
5 tsp of 100% Pure Natural Honey (Acts as a humectante to draw in more moisture and thickens the consitancy of the mix)
8-10 drops of Now (the brand) Pure Peppermint Oil (stimulant)
8-10 drops of Rosemary Oil (stimulant) ** Just Added**
Mix thoroughly until it turns a thick light yellow. Pore the mix into a old container (I used an old EQP DPR-11 bottle) and seal it. This mix will fill a little more than half the bottle of a DPR-11 container.
My wash day is tomorrow (Thursday) so I will definately be trying to out to see how my hair reacts to it. Im going to wash first and then sit under the dryer for about 25-30mins on medium heat and then rinse and apply leave-ins. Right now Im so anxious because I really need a conditioner that will moisturize, lubricate and strengthen all at the same time. We'll see how it goes...cross your fingers.
Last Revised July 6, 2020:
My regimen consists of a consistent moisture/protein balance! A consistent dose of protein is important for my normal to high porosity 4b/c relaxed hair. My focus over the years has always been on keeping my regimen as simple as possible! My wash days are Sundays and Thursdays.
Once a week or bi-weekly:
→ Prepoo with a light protein for 15-20mins with a heat cap, rinse
→ Shampoo
→ Deep Condition with a moisturizing conditioner for 25-30mins with heat, rinse
→ Apply Leave-in and lightly comb through
→ Air dry with the Scarf Method (if needed)
→ Moisturize and seal then I apply JBCO to my scalp in sections (optional)
Thursdays:
→ Deep Condition on dry hair with a moisturizing treatment/oil for 25-30mins (optional)
→ Co-wash with a Moisturizing Conditioner
→ Apply Leave-ins and lightly comb through
→ Air dry with the Scarf Method
→ Moisturize and seal then I apply JBCO to my scalp in sections (optional)
Daily:
→ Moisturize in sections & seal in sections. Bun my hair.
Others:
- Relax every 10-12 weeks
- Dust/trim with every relaxer
- Baggy my ends when dry
- Light Protein Treatment
- Clarify 1x/month
- Black Tea Rinse for shedding (when needed)
- Wear protective styles 99% (buns)
My Staple Hair Products:
Shampoo:
- Keracare Hydrating and detangling shampoo
Clarifying Shampoo:
- ORS Creamy Aloe Clarifying Shampoo
Protein Treatment/Conditioner:
- Aphogee 2 Minute Reconstructor
Moisturizing Deep Conditioners:
- Keracare Humecto (Tub)
- TGIN Miracle Honey Mask
- Shea Moisture Manuka Honey and Marufa Oil Mask
Moisture/Protein Balanced Conditioners
- ORS Replenshing Conditioner
- Joico Moisture Treatment Balm
- TGIN Miracle Honey Mask
- Shea Moisture Manuka Honey and Marufa Oil Mask
Moisture/Protein Balanced Conditioners
- ORS Replenshing Conditioner
- Joico Moisture Treatment Balm
Leave-In Conditioner:
- Creme of Nature Buttermilk Hair Milk Leave-in
- As I Am So Much Moisture Hair Lotion
Moisturizers:
- As I Am So Much Moisture Hair Lotion
- S Curl No Drip Curl Activator
- As I Am Hair Milk (straight hair)
- S Curl No Drip Curl Activator
- As I Am Hair Milk (straight hair)
Sealants:
- Jojoba Oil
- EVOO
- EVOO
Scalp Oil:
- Jamaican Black Castor Oil
Deep Conditioner Additions:
- Extra Virgin Olive Oil
- Avocado Oil
- Virgin Coconut Oil
Heat Protectant/Serum:
- One n Only Argan oil
- TRESemmè Keratin Smooth Spray
Gel/Edge Control:
- Fantasia IC Gel w/ Sparkelites
- ORS Edge Control
- Eco Styler Shea Butter and JBCO Gel
Co-wash Moisturizing Conditioner:
- Herbal Essences Hello Hydration Conditioner
- Aussie Miraculously Smooth
- Tresemme Moisture Rich Conditioner
Relaxer Prep:
- Base my scalp with JBCO
- Apply Roux Porosity Control to previously relaxed hair and ends
- Coat previously relaxed hair with Vaseline or DAX to prevent "relaxer run-off"
Relaxer:
- ORS Olive Oil Lye Normal Strength (20-25mins)
Neutralizing Shampoo:
- ORS Olive Oil Neutralizing Shampoo
Useful Tip: I mainly finger comb my hair, moisturize & seal then style. I barely use combs. Low manipulation is key for me!!
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