My damaged relaxed hair

Quick visual of my hair regimen now

This is probably the MOST frequently asked question I receive on a daily/weekly basis and - of course - it’s a valid one too. Unfortunately, many still perceive relaxed hair to be "thin", "stringy" and "limp".


While thinning and "chewed-up ends" was a common thing to witness in Relaxed hair decades ago (see above), I would say this perception is no longer the norm.  The perception that equates Relaxed hair to being thin,  pre-dates the era of ladies embarking on a Relaxed hair journey and taking the time to understand their hair, its needs etc. Nowadays, Relaxed hair automatically equating to T H I N hair is faaaaar from the truth - with the help of proper care of course!

In my opinion, obtaining and maintaining a thick Relaxed hair ponytail, or hair in general, is never accomplished by just doing “one” thing. I believe a combination of multiple things done frequently attributed to the fullness of my Relaxed hair and ends. Below, I share with you all of the healthy hair habits that I've instilled into my hair regimen contributing to my thick and healthy Relaxed hair ponytail.

1. Washing and Deep conditioning weekly - Words cannot express how important it is to deep condition your hair on a consistent basis. I know you hear it time-and-time again, but it's no joke!! For me, washing and deep conditioning on a weekly basis (using heat i.e. hooded dryer and steamer) has been a game changer. My hair gets a weekly dose of moisture and protein which helps in nourishing my strands to withstand breakage preventing damage and it increases the fullness of my strands. Also, using the 3 penetrating oils (Avocado, Coconut and Olive oil) mixed with a few of my deep conditioners has really helped to strengthen and preserve my hair cuticle from the inside out - which equals fuller healthier hair.

2. Incorporating protein in my regimen frequently - Since I began incorporating more protein (balanced with moisture) into my regimen, my hair has increased in thickness by far! Being scared of protein, to the point of never using it in your regimen, will set you up for a serious setback. Facts! Protein is great because it causes the hair shaft to swell in diameter; therefore, increasing the overall thickness of your Relaxed strands. Protein treatments fortify my hair preventing breakage. So less breakage = more hair on my head = fuller looking hair and pony overall. I always look for "Hydrolyzed protein" in my protein treatments/DC's. Hydrolyzed keratin and Hydrolyzed collagen are my favourites. Every time I do a protein treatment, I always follow up with a moisturizing treatment to soften and hydrate my hair. Balance is key!

3. Keeping my ends trimmed - Having a ponytail with "chewed-up" ends is neverrr a good look!  I maintain my ends on a cycle that works for me. I notice that when I trim every 10-12 (essentially quarterly) my ends remain at its fullest! Incorporating this "preventative maintenance" trimming schedule catches thinning or split ends before they get worse without having to do a big cut months later (better to be proactive than reactive). When I trim every 3 months, my ends remain full, my ponytail looks and feels thicker and my hair hangs better. Never skimp on your trims, your ‘future-self’ will thank you for it.

4. Moisturizing and sealing frequently - Let's just be clear, oils do NOT moisturize the hair. Period. Oils cannot hydrate the hair, only water based products can. It's important that all moisturizer's have water as the first ingredient. I personally prefer water based moisturizers that have a liquid-y consistency, typically containing Glycerin, and I seal with Jojoba oil. I moisturize and seal daily, if not every other day. Moisturizing and sealing has increased the elasticity and fullness in my strands due to the increased moisture levels. Increased moisture levels = prevents breakage = less thinning = fuller hair. Just being consistent with this simple hair habit has kept more hair on my head and less on my clothes, bathroom counter and floor.


5. Stretching and using a "Normal" strength relaxer - Relaxing at 10-12 weeks post Relaxer has always been beneficial for my hair and hair type. Stretching out my Relaxers gives my new growth a chance to grow in fully and become "visible" enough to apply the Relaxer touch up to my new growth ONLY. Relaxing sooner, with no visible new growth, can cause overlapping (relaxing previously relaxed hair) which can lead to over-processed hair which causes thinness, breakage and overall damage to your Relaxed hair. So avoiding the entire over-lapping and over-processing drama, has allowed my strands to remain at its fullest. Also, Normal strength relaxers process slower, in comparison to Extra strength. Slower processing time translates to more texture remaining in the hair after a relaxer touch up. More texture = fuller, thicker hair & ponytail.

6. I prevent "Relaxer run off" - I do no relax my new growth without my ends being protected from the Relaxer. Relaxer run-off is a term used to describe the process of when you are rinsing out the relaxer and the possibility of the relaxer "re-relaxing" your strands/ends as it's being rinsed from the hair.  As mentioned before, Relaxing previously Relaxed hair can cause over-processing which, of course, leads to thinness and breakage. I always protect the length of my hair from Relaxer run- off by creating a barrier between my hair and the Relaxer. I always coat my ends with ROUX Porosity control and DAX (petroleum based hair grease) for maximum protection. This layer of protection prevents the Relaxer from penetrating and processing my ends. As a result, my ends remain full!

7. Doing Scalp massages - After wash days, I typically like to massage my scalp with Jamaican Black Castor oil. I find that massaging my scalp with JBCO, in a gentle circular motion, stimulates my scalp and increases the blood flow to my hair follicles. As a result, I noticed that my hair growth rate has sped up and the density of my hair has increased for an overall thicker ponytail.

8. I Protective style weekly - Approximately 4 days of of the week my hair is in a safe protective style. By safe I mean a style that will not negatively impact the health of my hair/ends i.e. bun, clipped up etc. I rock protective styles so that my hair is off of my shoulders and not rubbing back-and-forth against the fabric of my clothing (causing friction, tangles, dryness etc.). This simple hair habit, preserves the healthy of my ends as they are shielded from the elements. Too, the moisture levels remain higher in my hair as opposed to having my hair loose and hang down (my hair will lose moisture quicker). More moisture = less breakage= less thinning = fuller ponytail!

This question ---> "How do I get thicker relaxed hair?" is probably the most frequently asked question I have received while on my hair journey. It's definitely a question that I love to answer simply because I always desired to know how I could thicken up my own hair, prior to starting my hair journey in 2007. Since then, its been my mission to find the answers! Here are a few tips I "swear by" that have helped me thicken up my relaxed hair!

1. Stretching Relaxers
It is highly recommended to space out your relaxers as far as possible. Why you ask? Well by stretching out your relaxers you are giving your hair a much needed break so that your new growth has a chance to grow in fully before reapplying your relaxer touch up. On the flip side, when your new growth is not "visible", the possibility of overlapping your relaxer i.e. applying relaxer on the previously relaxed hair, is HIGH. Overlapping your relaxer is a HUGE no-no as it can cause thinness, breakage and overall damage to your relaxed hair. Stretching your relaxers (10-12 weeks minimum) makes your hair stronger and thicker over time!

2. Using Normal Strength Relaxer NOT Extra Strength
Normal strength relaxers tend to process the hair at a much slower rate than extra strength relaxers. The slower process along with a quick application time (15-20 mins; fast relaxer speed = less processing = less texture removed from the hair = thicker hair) is a great way to leave texture in your strands. More texture = thicker/dense strands. Also, apply the relaxer to the new growth ONLY - nowhere else. Previously relaxed hair does not need to be relaxed again (this is called over-processing which leads to thinness).

3. Protect Your Previously Relaxed Hair While Relaxing
Never ever relax your hair without your ends being protected from the relaxer. Relaxing previously relaxed hair can cause your hair to be over-processed which eventually leads to thinness and breakage. Protecting the length of your hair, all the way to the ends, creates a barrier between your hair and the run-off of the relaxer. Beware that rinsing out your relaxer, without protection, the length of your hair is at risk of being processed!  It is essential to coat your strands with Vaseline (nothing is penetrating through that), Castor Oil, or Porosity Control Conditioner for maximum protection.

4. Pre-poo With Coconut Oil 
Coconut oil is the most penetrating natural oil and very beneficial for relaxed hair. Coconut oil is known to protect the hair from protein loss when used as a pre-shampoo treatment. In other words, it helps prevent damage to the cuticle/hair as it penetrates deeply into the cortex of the hair; therefore, little to no protein is lost. Less damage = stronger fuller cuticle = thicker hair.

5. Weekly Light Protein Treatments
Protein is your friend but more importantly, relaxed hair needs it! Protein causes the hair to swell in diameter thus increasing the thickness of your relaxed strands. Protein treatments strengthen and fortify the hair preventing breakage. Always use products with "hydrolyzed protein" as they are small enough to penetrate into the hair cortex, i.e. hydrolyzed keratin, hydrolyzed collagen, hydrolyzed animal protein etc., to aid in patching up damaged areas along the hair shaft creating a fuller thicker strand. Always follow up your protein treatments with a moisturizing treatment to soften and smooth out the hair.

6. Cut off thin ends
Remove thin ends immediately. As the saying goes "health over length" is nothing but the truth! Don't hold on to thin ends for the sake of claiming "BSL or MBL". Even if your hair will be shorter once trimmed, there is nothing better than seeing hair with beautiful full blunt ends. Your hair will automatically feel and look thicker. Maintain your trimmed ends on a cycle that works for you i.e. mini trims every 8 weeks, trims every 3 or 6 months etc. Remember to use sharp shears designed for hair cutting only.

7. Use Products with Panthenol
Panthenol is a humectant commonly found in deep conditioners and leave-ins. Humectants draw moisture from the air into the hair. Panthenol is also capable of penetrating the hair cuticle and cortex; therefore, helping to thicken each hair shaft naturally up to 10%. Look for deep conditioners and leave-in products (moisturizers too!) to aid in thickening up your hair.