Hairlicious Inc.: Breakage

5 Reasons Why YOUR Relaxed Hair Is Breaking! And How To Fix It | Healthy Hair Care

Breakage Friday, May 19, 2023

"My hair is constantly breaking! How can I fix this?"

This is probably one of the MOST frequently asked questions I receive on a weekly basis. To be honest, it's such a tricky question to answer because everyone's hair is unique and there's a ton of variables to consider, but it's a valid question that deserves an explanation or two.

First things first, breakage is inevitable. It will happen, and that's okay. <— Read that again if you need to!

There is no such person, race or hair type that is exempt from this. Hair breakage is your hair's way of letting you know that something is off and for you to address your hair's needs accordingly. With healthy balanced hair, you'll notice a decrease in the amount of breakage you receive and an increase in length retention.

So, when it comes to relaxed hair breakage, I've learned that there are several key factors that you should avoid being guilty of, if you want to grow your relaxed hair long and healthy.

5 Reasons Why YOUR Relaxed Hair Is Breaking! And How To Fix It:

1. Moisture Deficiency

This is hair that is super dry, rough, and brittle! Your hair is snapping and popping off into tiny piece everywhere you turn with little to no manipulation. Why? Well, dry moisture deprived hair lacks elasticity. This is a result of your hair not receiving adequate moisture levels for your hair type. Elasticity is an indicator of your hair's health. If you can't stretch a strand and have it return to its previous length and shape, then we have a problem. Hydration and moisture should be the cornerstone of your hair regimen until your hair is restored and balanced. The question is how can you fix moisture deficient hair? Simple. Up your moisture levels.

Here are some ways to do that:

moisturizing your ends with a water-based protein-free moisturizer and sealing with an oil - nightly
misting your hair periodically throughout the day or right before you moisturize and seal
deep conditioning weekly with a protein-free moisture based deep conditioner
throwing in a mid-week co-wash
baggying your ends after you moisturize and seal for several minutes (to an hour) to lock in moisture

Having a low moisture regimen is a recipe for dryness and breakage. Be sure to read your product ingredient labels in search for moisture-based ingredients. Overusing protein-based products (products containing hydrolyzed silk, keratin, collagen, etc.), without balancing it with moisture, will contribute to dry, ridged hair that is prone to breakage. Always analyze your hair!

Check out my video on MOISTURE vs. PROTEIN | The Benefits & Differences, Reading Product Ingredients + MORE

2. Protein Deficiency

Protein deficient hair is overly stretchy, limp, and weak! This is a result of excess moisture in the hair causing the hair structure to be overly elastic. Without adequate structure in the hair, the hair can be prone to breakage. I know protein gets a bad rep in the haircare world, but it's so necessary for balanced healthy hair. Protein binds to the cuticles and penetrates deep within the cortex to heal the hair from the inside out. A lack of protein in the hair can compromise the hair structure, increase weak strands, cause thinning, and promote breakage. So how can you fix protein deficient hair? Easy. Give your hair a dose of protein every so often when you notice the symptoms above.

Here are some ways to incorporate protein into your regimen:

use a protein-based leave-in conditioner on wash days and then layer it with a moisturizing leave-in for the perfect balance.
use a light protein conditioner/reconstructor biweekly or monthly, depending on your hair's needs. Always follow up with a moisture based deep conditioner for balance
include protein-based foods in your diet i.e. eggs, meat, nuts, protein shakes etc. Protein is essential for hair growth and it's always best to nourish your hair from the inside out!

3. High Manipulation

If you are guilty of changing your hairstyle daily, or combing and touching your hair often then listen up - you need to stop! No, seriously. Over manipulating your hair and constantly adding stress to your strands will lead to breakage. Pulling, tugging, tension, and friction is a recipe for disaster. Over manipulating your hair will put you further and further away from your hair goals. Less is better, trust me. Keep styling to a minimum and you'll notice minimal breakage over time!

Here are a few ways to limit daily/weekly manipulation:

put the comb down and finger comb - first!
use a wide tooth comb instead of a finer tooth comb
keep your fingers out of your hair
thoroughly detangle on wash days, not daily
keep your styles simple and tension free
slow down and detangle, take your time

4. Lack of Protection

Understand that safe and effective preservation of your hair/ends, leads to healthier longer hair. We all know that the ends are the oldest part of the hair. They are porous, fragile and require more care to see length. With that being said, it's vital that we protect our ends from the elements, i.e. clothing, environment etc., as much as possible. Going to bed without proper protection, i.e. satin scarf, bonnet or satin pillow case - is a problem. Wearing your hair down and having it rub against harsh clothing - is a problem. Using heat appliances without heat protection - is a problem. Not giving your ends a break from daily wear and tear - is a problem.

Here are a couple ways to protect your hair for healthier hair:

wear a satin bonnet/scarf/pillowcase to bed
wear smooth fabrics when wearing your hair down
use a heat protectant every time you use direct heat
throw your hair into a tension free protective style - frequently

5. Not Removing Product Build Up

Believe it or not, product build up can inhibit your hair cuticles from accepting additional products possibly leaving your hair dry, dull, and rough. Blocked cuticles and dryness will lead to breakage. Product buildup and residue can leave the hair feeling weighed down. The cuticles are unable to breathe, the hair becomes unmanageable, and it begins to suffer. If you notice that your hair is lacking shine, tangled/matted, constantly breaking, difficult to comb, constantly dry or rough - you need to clarify your hair asap. Clarifying your hair with a sulfate shampoo will rid your hair of product, residue, dirt, and buildup allowing your cuticles to breathe and accept product. Removing buildup monthly will give your hair a clean slate allowing your hair to hold on to moisture, feel softer, smoother and much more manageable.

BONUS:

6. Neglecting Your Trims

Failing to trim when it's needed is setting yourself up for future disappointment. Neglecting your trims for the sake of temporary ‘length’ isn't worth it in the long run. Why? Well, missing your trims can cause your split ends to get worse. Unkempt ends can lead to further splits causing tangles, breakage and eventually thinning. Maintaining a trim schedule that rids your ends of thinning, splits, single strand knots etc. is crucial in preventing breakage. I highly suggest doing light dustings every month (taking off 1/4" of an inch) and trim with every relaxer or every 12-14 weeks (taking off 1/2-1" inch).

Don't avoid your trims, choose health over length - always!

Share |

5 Lessons I've Learned To Achieve Healthy Relaxed Hair

Breakage Wednesday, August 26, 2020

As you may or may not know, I've learned a quite a few lessons in my relaxed hair journey.

First, let's back track a bit.

I started my journey with damaged shoulder length hair. It was over processed, thin and damaged. Then, I knew nothing about healthy hair practices and my hair was a display of that.

My damaged relaxed hair

Within 7 months I nursed my relaxed hair from SL (shoulder length) to APL (arm pit length). It was great - but short lived. Overtime, my ends began to thin out. I experienced a lot of breakage and as a result I did a big chop back to SL.

At the time, I thought my regimen was solid but to my surprise, there were things I need to improve i.e. methods/techniques and overall just getting a better understanding of my hair. This back and forth phase in my journey, taught me a few things that I'm thankful for 'till this day!

Below are a few lessons I've learned to correct my damaged hair, including the setback that took me from APL to SL. The re-evaluation my routine, research and patience allowed me to grasp a better understanding of my relaxed hair while helping me achieve healthier hair overtime.

Here are the 5 Lessons I've Learned To Achieve Healthy Relaxed Hair.

PROTECT YOUR PREVIOUSLY RELAXED ENDS

Not doing this is what caused my dry, damaged, overly thin relaxed hair in the first place! I had a stylist who would run the relaxer from my roots to ends, with no care in the world. This was my 'norm'. I was totally unaware that this method of processing a relaxer touch up was incorrect and damaging even though my hair was screaming for help.

It was only once I started my hair journey, I began to understand proper relaxing methods. No questioned asked, I switched stylists. Though my stylist relaxed the new growth only, he overlapped like crazy! Trying to change this habits just wasn't working.vHe was set in his ways, as most stylists tend to be. I had to come up with a method that would preserve my previously relaxed ends from being re-relaxed without having to fuss and fight with my stylist. This is what sparked my process of using Coconut oil down the length of my hair (now I use Porosity control w/ DAX). OMG, problem solved! With time, I noticed that my hair was no longer over processed but filled with more texture and strength. It was healthier and felt 10x better.

My over-processed hair taught me that previously relaxed hair needs protection. In order to prevent overlapping, relaxed ends need to be coated with a thick oil or grease. Failing to do this can lead to thin damaged ends overtime.

ADDING OILS TO DEEP CONDITIONERS

Though my hair is coarse, it was always weak! Early on in my hair journey, I learned the benefits of adding oils to deep conditioners. Not just any oils, but the 3 penetrating oils! That includes Avocado Oil, Coconut oil and Olive Oil. I'm attracted to these specific oils because of the properties and benefits they deliver:

Avocado oil - Humectant/supports moisture. Contains amino acids & vitamins A, B, D, and E.

Coconut oil - Provides strength & fortifies the hair. Reduces protein loss in the hair.

Olive oil - Fatty acids help increase elasticity & strength.

These oils are packed with nutrients that support healthy hair. They provide strength, elasticity, but more importantly they penetrate right into the cortex up to 90%. I add these oils to my deep conditioners - approximately 1tsp per oil. The heat allows my cuticles to raise open to accept all the goodness each oil has to offer! Too, it doubles as a hot oil treatment and deep conditioning session in one, without the extra steps. My weak, overly thin hair transformed! I noticed a change in the health, bounce, shine and fullness of my relaxed hair with each session. These oils changed the game for me!

My weak hair led me to incorporate high quality natural oils in my deep conditioners. This new process taught me that not only can these natural oils lubricate my hair, but they drastically enhanced and fortified my strands for healthier fuller hair.

DO EVERYTHING IN SECTIONS

My big chop from APL to SL was a result of thin ends due to breakage. I was about a year into my hair journey and I thought I was doing everything right. I had a small arsenal of products, I had set wash days, I had a regimen. I was committed and eager to reach my goals. However, my ends were thin, see-through, weak, and breaking off!! I called my sister in a panic and she came to my rescue. She observed the way I applied my products, what I used, and when I used it.

She said "Val, you need to do things in sections!"

I said "What?, I am! Look, I'm splitting my hair down the middle and applying product to both sections." She said "That's the problem! You need smaller sections!"

The light bulb went ON! I had an "Aha" moment.

It was in that instant that I suddenly understood where I went wrong. The trade off to not applying products in sections was my thin damaged ends. Not properly sectioning off my hair was preventing products from penetrating into my strands. Certain areas were neglected. My strands were starving and lacking proper nourishment. My strands weren't getting the full attention they deserved. Once I changed my methods and started applying my deep conditioners and moisturizer in sections (at least 6-7 sections), my hair began to take off! No longer did I experience extreme thinning.

My thin ends taught me to always work in sections when applying products to ensure my strands get the care and attention they deserve.

START WITH THE ENDS FIRST

We all know now that the ends of the hair are the oldest and need the most care and attention - I never knew this until 1 year, or so, into my hair journey and it costed me length! Once I understood that my thin ends were a result of me not sectioning off my hair, I also started pampering my ends by applying product there FIRST!!

Why?

Well, as I mentioned before your ends are the oldest part of your hair and experience the most wear and tear. Excessive manipulation or lack of attention in this fragile area can cause breakage. Since then, I vowed that my ends will be the first to get my moisturizer, deep conditioner, prepoo etc. and then I work my way up to my roots. I carefully finger detangle and gently comb from the ends up, too.

My thin starving ends taught me that applying products to my ends first, while doing everything in sections, is the winning combo for healthier fuller ends. Nothing gets neglected!!

LEAVE SOME TEXTURE BEHIND

My relaxed hair used to be bone straight while wet and dry. To be honest, it was over processed because my ends were relaxed with every touch up and I sat in the relaxer as if it were conditioner. Thinking about this really makes me cringe! Luckily, I’ve discovered that bone straight relaxed hair lacks volume and elasticity, making it easier to snap off and break. No wonder why my SL hair lacked thickness and couldn't retain length.

When I switched stylists in 2009, my relaxer process improved drastically in that he never overlapped or left the relaxer on for too long. Once the relaxer was applied, to the roots only, I didn't have to wait or sit in the relaxer in order for it to "take". It was rinsed out immediately and neutralized. I continued those same steps when I decided to self relax. My relaxed hair would always come out straight but with a slight wave to it.

Leaving the relaxer on for too long rids the hair of that much needed texture. Leaving behind some waves isn't a bad thing. With added texture your hair will feel and look stronger, you will experience less breakage and your hair will be thicker (whether you have fine or coarse/thick strands).

By no means am I saying you should texlax your hair, unless you want to, but I am saying that you shouldn't relax to the point of having bone straight relaxed hair, especially if it isn't benefiting you in health and in length. I noticed a huge increase in the thickness and strength of my hair. Seriously! My breakage decreased and my hair felt resilient to daily manipulation.

My over-processed hair taught me that it's not okay to relax to the point of being bone straight. It's perfectly okay and recommended to leave a small amount of texture behind in the hair for strength, fullness and elasticity. My hair continues to thank me for it, and your relaxed hair will too!

In addition, below are processes I've included in my regimen - over the years. All of these steps, methods and techniques have contributed to me achieving healthy relaxed hair. Of course, being consistent produced the results!

Quick visual of my hair regimen now

I hope my hair lessons have equipped you with a renewed mindset and better understanding when it comes to achieving healthy relaxed hair. Everyone's hair is different and what works for me, may not work for others - vice verse.

I encourage you to pay attention to your hair. Take in how it looks, feels, behaves etc. as these indicators will prompt you to adjust, add or omit certain steps or processes from your routine to become closer to achieving healthier relaxed hair.

Share |

Hair Breakage 101 - Protein Deficiency!

Breakage Wednesday, February 27, 2019

Can't say this ENOUGH: Having healthy balanced hair is key to a successful healthy hair journey!

In a previous blog post, I discussed hair breakage caused by a moisture deficient hair regimen. Experiencing breakage from a low moisture regimen occurs when the hair isn't receiving enough hydration! Having balanced hair is the result of having a healthy moisture/protein balance - which can be tricky to acheive. Hair breakage is typically the result of either a moisture deficiency or protein deficiency. If you missed it, Be sure to check out my post on my 5 Tips to Reverse Moisture Deficient Breakage!

Now, lack of protein in a hair regimen is equally important. Why? Well, it simply means you are overusing moisture based products i.e. moisturizers, deep conditioners etc. and/or leaving the hair wet/damp for long periods of time frequently without a dose of protein.

Let's face it, protein in the healthy hair care world tends to get a bad rep. and many often avoid it at ALL costs out of fear of getting "protein overload"! Protein is great for the hair, especially if you are relaxed. Hair is made of protein and it's the only ingredient that really binds to the hair and repairs it from the inside out. Key thing to remember with protein is: Protein must be balanced out with moisture!

Over moisturizing the hair compromises the integrity of the hair structure making the hair feel weak, limp, mushy, and overly stretchy. You'll probably notice excessive thinning and/or shedding of the hair. This is primarily because the hair is weak and the cuticle layers have nothing to bind to. Essentially, the elasticity and porosity of the hair is altered.

Rest assured, protein deficient hair is easy to correct!

Think about it, limp, mush, overly stretchy hair requires strength to fortify and reinforce the protein structure of the hair. A strong cuticle structure gives the hair ample defense against manipulation and breakage! <---Remember that!

Protein deficient breakage can be reversed by doing any of the following:

Using a light protein treatment on a consistent basis (followed by a moisturizing deep conditioner for balance).
Using a protein based leave-in conditioner on wash day and then layering it with a moisturizing leave-in for balance - when needed.
Moisturize your hair with a water based moisturizer that contains hydrolyzed proteins for added strength - when needed.
Using a hardcore protein treatment every 6-8 weeks to strengthen the hair from the inside out.

If you have a low protein regimen and breakage has been an ongoing issue for you, you will definitely need to incorporate one of the tips above to improve the strength in your strands.

Overusing moisture based products or techniques i.e. wet bunning, baggying too often, constantly keeping the hair wet/damp etc. without balancing it with protein on a regular schedule, is a recipe for disaster! Protein fills the cracks along the hair shaft adding structure and strength against breakage as a result of mushy, limp, overly stretchy hair.

How often your hair requires protein really depends on the person, hair type, regimen etc. Start with using a light protein treatment on a monthly basis and see if that helps to strengthen your hair (always follow up with a moisturizing conditioner).

It's important to analyze and listen to your hair! And don't be scared of protein. It plays a vital role in our healthy hair regimens. Giving your hair a regular dose of protein, while balancing it with moisture, will promote a balanced and successful healthy hair journey!

Share |

Video: Retain Length - 7 Best Ways to Retain Length for Healthy Hair Growth!

Breakage Monday, January 28, 2019

Share |

Hair Breakage 101 - Moisture Deficiency!

Breakage Monday, January 21, 2019

Healthy hair is all about having balanced hair!

Balanced hair has the ability to withstand daily manipulation, styling, etc. due to its strength and elasticity attributes within the hair's fibers. Balanced hair feels soft and supple yet strong while wet or dry. Balanced hair has a beautiful shine/sheen, movement and feels good to the touch!

Having balanced hair is the result of having a healthy moisture/protein balance - which can be tricky to acheive. Hair breakage is typically the result of either a moisture deficiency or protein deficiency.

Moisture deficient hair is no fun!

It's probably the WORST. Think about it, your hair is dull, dry, brittle and as a result snapping off into tiny pieces left-right-and-center. Breakage from a low moisture regimen occurs when the hair isn't receiving enough hydration! SIMPLE.

Moisture deficient breakage can be reversed by doing the following:

Weekly deep conditioning sessions with a moisture rich deep conditioner
Misting the hair with water throughout the day or prior to moisturizing and sealing
Moisturizing with a water based moisturizer and sealing with an oil regularly
Baggying the ends of your hair to prevent moisture loss on a weekly basis
Incorporating weekly cowashes with a hydrating moisturizing conditioner

It's all about UP'ing your moisture game!

If you have a low moisture regimen and breakage has been an ongoing issue for you, you will definitely need to stay away from: regular heat styling, styling products i.e. pomades, gels, holding sprays/lotions, and protein based products.

Overusing protein based products (products containing hydrolyzed silk, keratin, collagen, etc.), without balancing it with moisture, is a recipe for disaster. Protein fills the cracks along the hair shaft adding structure. Too much structure makes the hair rigid. Rigid hair lacks elasticity which then leads to breakage.

It's important to analyze your hair! Recognize when you have a moisture deficient regimen and take the necessary steps to correct it. The tips I suggested above will help improve the elasticity and moisture levels in the hair; therefore, decreasing breakage.

Moist hair = Happy hair :)

Share |

Pages

5 Reasons Why YOUR Relaxed Hair Is Breaking! And How To Fix It | Healthy Hair Care

Top 3 Topics To Research When Starting Your Healthy Hair Journey

5 Lessons I've Learned To Achieve Healthy Relaxed Hair

Hair Breakage 101 - Protein Deficiency!

Video: Retain Length - 7 Best Ways to Retain Length for Healthy Hair Growth!

Hair Breakage 101 - Moisture Deficiency!

About me

Shop Olaplex

Latest Video(s)

Follow Me

Featured Post

Post Relaxer Wash Day - Ft. Olaplex | Relaxed Hair

Blog Archive