October Q&A - Newly Relaxed Tips, Bond Mender vs. Olaplex, High Porosity Hair, Winterize Your Hair and MORE! - Your Hair Questions Answered!

Thursday, October 28, 2021

Hey girl hey!

We’re back with the monthly Q&A that takes place over on my Instagram Stories. I love our question and answer sessions because it allows me to connect with my awesome community, it gives me a chance to get to know your hair care needs and you get to know a little more about me! It’s a win/win.

Let's get into this Q&A!

DO YOU MOISTURIZE YOUR HAIR EVERY DAY?

Not any more. I used to moisturize my hair twice a day (morning and night) when I first started my hair journey. It was literally the best thing ever. I noticed a huge improvement in the moisture levels in my hair and I quickly started to retain length. My hair is naturally very coarse and dry (4b/c) so it craves moisture. If you are just starting out on your relaxed hair journey, I highly recommend that you moisturize daily. You can always decrease the frequency if you notice your hair is doing a good job at retaining the moisture. Now, I moisturize daily or every other day.

HAVE YOU TRIED ANY OF THE MIZANI PRODUCT LINE? WHICH ONE AND WHAT WAS YOUR EXPERIENCE?

I tried the Mizani Moisture Fuse Moisturizing Conditioner years back. It was okay - nothing to write home about. I was very underwhelming as many used and loved it back then. My hair felt smooth, but the moisture was lacking - if that makes sense. I also tried the Mizani Butter Blends Relaxer back in 2008. The results were amazing; however, I was a little under-processed after using it, so I discontinued.

CAN YOU RECOMMEND A LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER OR LOTION TO REPAIR BREAKAGE?

I wouldn't say there's a "specific" leave-in conditioner that will help repair breakage. First, you have to identify the possible cause for breakage i.e. moisture deficiency/protein deficiency,  build up, etc. 

Once the specific deficiency is identified, you can then proceed with the correct product to help minimize the breakage. For moisture, a great leave-in would be TGIN Green Tea Leave-in Conditioner, TGIN Rose Water Smoothing Leave-in Conditioner, or As I Am Classic Leave-in. For protein, Aphogee Green Tea and Keratin Restructurizer or Shea Moisture JBCO Leave-in.


ANY ADVICE FOR SOMEONE NEWLY RELAXED?

Congratulations on starting your Relaxed Hair Journey!!

My advice would be to do as much research as possible (Google, Youtube and Instagram will be your best friends) on healthy hair care practices that you can start implementing into your regimen. Many rely on others to do their homework for them, but doing the research yourself while asking questions will give you the education and knowledge you need for a successful hair journey. By all means, nerd out a bit! :)

Relaxed Hair Topics To Search:

Moisture/Protein Balance

Product Ingredients 

Prepoo Treatments

Shampooing Techniques

Deep Conditioning 

Moisturizing and Sealing

Relaxer Stretching Practices

Low Manipulation/Protective Styles

Air Drying

Relaxer Day Tips

Hair Tools

Scalp Massages

To help jump start your journey, I would recommend that you get a professional trim. Starting off your journey with full healthy ends will put your hair in a better position to retain length and fullness. Assess your hair often to ensure that what you're using is in fact helping your hair and not hurting your hair. Assessing your hair via the help of pictures or a journal, will help you determine what works and omit what doesn't.

There will be a lot of trial and error along the way but always listen to your hair and tweak your regimen as you see fit. Patience is necessary. Smash those hair goals, sis!

HOW DO YOU HELP STOP BREAKAGE IN ORDER TO RETAIN LENGTH?

The best way to stop breakage is to first identify why you're experiencing breakage in the first place. There could be various reasons as to why you're experiencing breakage i.e. mechanical damage, chemical damage, moisture/protein imbalance, build up etc. Take the time to sit down,  assess your hair and try to determine the possible cause(s) so you can implement the correct steps to retain length. For example:

If Mechanical Damage: assess the way you manipulate your hair i.e. Tight buns, ponytails, excessive blow drying, flat irons, too many protective styles etc.

If Chemical Damage: assess if your hair has been over-processed i.e. overly thin, limp, leaving the relaxer on too long, colour-treated hair, etc. 

If Moisture/Protein Imbalance: assess if your hair has a deficiency in moisture i.e. stiff, dry, rough brittle or assess if your hair has a deficiency in protein i.e. overly limp, mushy, stretching, can't hold a curl etc.

If Build Up: assess if your hair won't absorb products i.e. feels waxy, coated, constantly dry, dull etc. Using a clarifying shampoo will help lift the product build up.

WHAT ARE SOME DEEP CONDITIONERS YOU RECOMMEND?

There's several amazing moisturizing deep conditioners on the market right now. From my observation, here are several deep conditioners that people enjoy using on their hair (just to name a few):

Keracare Humecto Creme Conditioner

Mielle Mongongo Oil Hydrating Conditioner

TGIN Honey Miracle Mask

Aussie 3 Minutes Miracle 

Shea Moisture 10 in 1 Conditioner

TGIN Miracle RepairX Deep Hydrating Hair Mask (small amount of protein)

Shea Moisture Manuka Honey and Mafura Oil Hair Mask (small amount of protein)


WHAT IS YOUR PLAN WHEN YOU START GRAYING?

I don’t put too much thought in this area; however, I think that I’ll start dying my hair if they grays get out of control. I also heard taking Black Strap Molasses as a daily supplement helps to prevent grays - so that’s definitely something worth looking into!  :)

BEEN SEEING PEOPLE USE HYALURONIC ACID IN THEIR HAIR LATELY. HAVE YOU TRIED IT? WOULD YOU TRY IT?

I guess this is the "new" method for increasing hydration levels in the hair. I've seen this ingredient in several hair care products lately. I personally haven’t tried it. I may take a look and see what the hype is about.

WHAT CO-WASH CAN I USE?

Any moisturizing 'cheapie' conditioner that works for your hair. There’s tons out there:

Aussie Moist

Tresemme Moisture Rich Conditioner

Herbal Essences Hello Hydration

V05 Conditioners

Suave Conditioners

As I Am Coconut Cowash

WHATS THE BEST WAY TO COMBAT POSTPARTUM HAIR LOSS? MY EDGES ARE ALL GONE.

Unfortunately, there's no 'one specific method/step/product' to help prevent postpartum shedding. It's a natural hormonal process that takes place several months, to a year, after giving birth or after breastfeeding. I personally went through it with my kids and it wasn't easy so I understand where you are coming from. Here are some of the best methods that helped me:

Incorporating Jamaican Black Castor Oil into my regimen as it helps to promote growth and thickness in the hair i.e. in my deep conditioner, prepoo, scalp massages etc.

Daily scalp massages to help stimulate growth - focusing on the areas that need it the most i.e. hairline, edges.

Adding essentials oils like Rosemary oil into deep conditioners or scalp massages (along with a carrier oil) to stimulate hair growth and decrease shedding.

Remained consistent with my post-natal vitamins. Taking them daily was a must. 

Increased my water intake (plus I was breastfeeding - another must)

Maintained my regular wash day routine as much as possible (it's a nice self-care moment for mommy)

Tried my best to remain patient and gave myself grace

It's a natural part of child birth and it will get back to normal again, sis. Hang in there!

HOW DO YOU DEAL WITH UNDER-PROCESSED HAIR?

My best advise would be to keep your hair (specifically the under-processed areas) moisturized as often and as much as possible.The various differences in texture requires a certain level of care to prevent unnecessary breakage and damage. 

Intensifying your deep conditioning treatments by adding oils and/or glycerin can help, doing the LOC/LCO method will help to lock in moisture preventing dryness. Keeping your hair up and away is key, so maintaining low manipulation/protective styles would be ideal in dealing with under-processed hair until you're ready to do a corrective relaxer.

DO YOU THINK THE CREME OF NATURE PLEX PRETREATMENT IS A GOOD SUBSTITUTE FOR OLAPLEX NO.3?


I don't think they should replace each other. Olaplex No.3 includes a patented technology to reinforce the broken bonds in the hair. CON Bond Mender acts like a mini protein treatment due to its light protein ingredient: Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.  Olaplex No.3 is not a protein conditioner. It’s a bond re-builder. As a result, they are different yet they work amazingly well together - my relaxer day staples.

HOW DO YOU KEEP YOUR HAIR STRAIGHT BETWEEN RELAXERS IF YOU ONLY FLAT IRON EVERY 10-12 WEEKS?


I think my hair remains straight througout my relaxer stretch because of the way I air dry. My moisturizers help to smooth my hair out, including my satin scarf and bonnet which also help to keep my laying flat.

Be sure to check out How I Air Dry My Relaxed Hair

WHAT ARE THE BEST TIPS FOR RETAINING LENGTH?

Keep your hair clean

Find the right moisture/protein balance for your hair

Utilize low manipulation/protective styles often

Keep your ends trimmed to protect against split ends

Minimize frequent direct heat 

Detangle carefully from the ends up

Keep your hair and ends covered at night using a satin/silk scarf or bonnet

Remain consistent in your hair regimen and you'll begin to see results :)

MY HAIR KEEPS SHEDDING, I DEEP TREAT, PROTEIN TREAT ETC. BUT IT STILL SHEDS SHOULD I JUST CUT IT ALL?

Shedding is very intricate but I wouldn't advise to cut it just yet. Shedding is a part of our natural hair growth cycle. Our hair grows, it rests, then it sheds. Typically on average, you can shed anywhere from 50-100 strands per day. This is normal. However, any shed hairs in excess of 50-100/day can be a cause for alarm. 

To help decrease shedding, I like do biweekly/monthly black tea rinses. It's been helpful. Adding rosemary essential oils in a carrier oil of your choice i.e. coconut oil, olive oil, avocado oil etc. while doing scalp massages can increase blood circulation, stimulate hair growth and reduce shedding.

Excessive shedding can be an indicator of many things i.e. incorrect usage of products, hormonal imbalance, rapid weight loss, diet, iron deficiency, medications, stress etc. 

If you feel that your shed strands are more than the average 50-100/day, I would suggest consulting with your family physician to get blood work done to ensure it’s not something serious.  

YOU ARE A MOMMY,  SELF CARE TIPS PLEASE?

Being a mom is such a joy, but the selfless act of it all can really make you neglect yourself at times. So for me, being intentional is important. 

I intentionally take time out for solo dates to the mall, getting my nails done at home, soaking in the tub (need to increase those), face mask Monday’s, taking a walk or bike ride and just overall quite time whether in prayer, the Bible or reading my favourite book. Mental, physical and spiritual maintenance is important so we can pour back into our families; just as much as we give. Self care isn’t selfish. Us moms need it!

PLEASE ADVISE ON HOW TO DEAL WITH FRIZZY HAIR? (HIGH POROSITY)

High porosity hair has open cuticles along the hair shaft. These open cuticles make it difficult for moisture to remain in the hair. 

Let me break it down even further...picture trying to keep heat in a house with the doors and windows wide open - it doesn't work! The doors and windows need to be closed in order to lock the heat in a cold house - get what I'm saying? So for high porosity hair, it's easy for moisture to escape the hair strands due to its open cuticles. 

Frizzy hair is the result of having open/raised cuticles. Your focus needs to be on finding products that are pH balanced, meaning products that are slightly on the acid side of the pH scale. 

Acidic products will allow the hair to feel smooth, soft, impart shine because the cuticles are laying flat.  This is why I love Avlon products because they are all pH balanced which is super important for high porosity relaxed hair. To help combat frizz, Prepoo your hair with coconut oil (coconut oil helps to rebuild the cuticle layer while making it lay smooth and flat), find a pH balanced sulfate free shampoo (Keracare Hydrating Shampoo, Maui Moisture Heal & Hydrate + Shea Butter Shampoo, Paul Mitchel Awapuhi Shampoo), deep condition and apply your leave-in conditioner (high end products tend to have balanced pH levels to help close the cuticle).  If you can’t find any leave-ins, try incorporating an Aloe Vera Juice Leave-in (water, aloe, glycerin + several drops of your favourite oil) and/or apple cider vinegar rinses (after you shampoo) into your regimen to help close the cuticle preventing frizz.

WHAT DO YOU THINK OF WILD GROWTH OIL HAVE YOU USED IT BEFORE?

It’s a great oil for promoting hair growth if used consistently. I own it and use it from time to time. 

HOW CAN I STOP MY HAIR FROM BREAKING? I DEEP CONDITION EVERY WEEK.

If you are noticing short broken hairs everywhere you need to ask yourself "what am I using? when was the last time I clarified?" "am I using enough moisture in my regimen?" "when was my last trim?" Asking yourself these types of questions will help you pin point the possible cause. 

Perform a strand test to really see what your hair needs. When you take a shed strand of hair and slightly tug on it, does your hair automatically break? does it feel ridged, rough and dry? If so, chances are you need more moisture in your regimen and the deep conditioner you're using isn't providing that. Or, when you tug on the shed strand and it continues to stretch, stretch and stretch before breaking in addition your hair feels mushy, limp, lifeless? chances are you need more strength in your regimen.

In the meantime, you can always clarify your hair using a clarifying shampoo and then deep condition with moisture to see if that helps. I always say...it's better to err on the side of caution using Moisture (protein free) based products when breakage arises. If you notice breakage minimizing, continue this wash day regimen (minus the clarifying portion) for 3 wash day cycles to rebalance your moisture levels.

It’s super important to read the ingredient labels on your products in order to determine if the products you’re using are protein or moisture based. Using them incorrectly can cause unnecessary breakage. Check out my video on knowing your ingredients:

HOW TO PROTECT THE HAIR DURING THE WINTER?

Winter is approaching and it's important to implement certain steps in order to protect your hair from drying out during the harsh winter weather. The way I see it, hair care during the winter is all about protection and prevention! For example:

1. Wearing silk/satin lined hats to prevent your hair from drying out.

2. Utilize protective styles (wigs, braids, weave, buns) to protect against the harsh weather and fabrics.

3. Apply oils rich in fats to your scalp to prevent dryness and flakes i.e. avocado oil, coconut oil, castor oil/JBCO, jojoba oil etc.

4. Use heavier oils and butters to seal in the moisture on your ends. 

5. Incorporate pre- shampoo treatments to enhance the moisture and softness in your hair.

6. Bring out the heavier deep conditioners i.e. masks, cholesterols etc. to help lock in hydration and strength.

7. Use the LCO/LOC method during your moisturizing and sealing sessions to preserve the moisture levels in your strands for longer periods of time.


That's wrap! xx

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