Back with a quick Relaxer Update while dealing with my Over-processed #relaxedhair!! 

Hey sis!

OMGosh it's been a minute.

Hope you are doing well and enjoying the last bit of what's left of Summer '23. For me, it went by wayyyy too fast. I took a nice break from creating content to instead, creating memories and having fun with the Hubby and kids all Summer long. It's been such a blessed time :)

Anyway, had to come with a hair update for the girls because I’ve been getting a ton of questions, so here we are!!! As of right now, I'm still using the Affirm Conditioning Relaxer in Normal Strength and I love ittt. I use this system once every 12-14 weeks - so roughly 4 touch-ups per year. 

Freshly Washed, Deep Conditioned and Revair'd

My regimen hasn't changed much. I'm still in the business of repeating what works and keeping things simple. I still wash and deep condition (with heat) weekly. Typically, I'll add in my 3PO's (Avocado, Coconut, Olive Oil) or JBCO into my deep conditioners for added benefits. Lately, I've been doing my protein treatments monthly (might increase to biweekly again), I moisturize and seal every other day along with scalp massages, and I protective style as often as I can i.e. buns, HBWs, wigs etc.  Oh and since it's warm outside, I've thrown in co-washing sessions to keep my hair hydrated and clean. It's been super easy and predictable!

As for products I'm loving, let me back track a bit. Since the beginning of 2023, its been my intention to replace my staple protein conditioner, Aphogee 2 Minute Reconstructor, with something just as good without the presence of Formaldehyde in the ingredients. It took quite some time to experiment and see what truly works, but I've narrowed it down and introduced a couple new protein based conditioners into my regimen. 

For starters, I've been loving the Joico K-Pak Reconstructing Conditioner. I used this in my Relaxer Day Vlog as a protein treatment in preparation for my relaxer back in Mar/Apr 2023. It has Hydrolyzed Keratin towards the top of the ingredient list, which is a plus. It strengthens and smooths my cuticles at the same time. I ALSO love the "sister conditioner" to that, it's called Joico K-PAK Hydrator Intense Treatment. I know, it sounds like it should be a 'moisture based conditioner' but 'round here, we read ingredients first, and the ingredients dictate that this is a protein based conditioner. Why? Well, it's laden with Hydrolyzed Keratin Protein (it ranks 7th in the ingredient list) and it's higher up on the ingredient list than Aphogee 2 Min Reconstructor - so that's a win. I mix it with my Coconut oil as a prepoo prior to shampooing for 25-30 mins (with or without heat) or after a clarify/shampoo session. The only CON I would say is that the bottle is kind of small in size and it's a little harder to find in stores...but it's so worth it! My hair feels very strong after each use and breakage has drastically minimized.

As for moisturizers, I'm still using the As I Am So Much Moisture and Taliah Waajid Protective Mist Bodifier as part of my moisturize and seal (Jojoba oil) routine. These products have never stirred me wrong! I haven't found a complete replacement for Scurl but these moisturizers are getting me through each relaxer stretch. I have a little secret though. There is a S-Curl No Drip product "dupe" that I found and currently testing out. So far I’m loving the way it makes my hair feel. It’s giving Scurl vibes all dayyy. I’m pleased with the ingredients and it keeps my new growth and relaxed hair moist and happy. I can’t wait to share it with you guys. I will continue to test it out to see if it officially gets my stamp of approval. I think I’m heading in that direction. Once I make my final decision, I will definitely share, so look out for that shortly :)  I also adore the Camille Rose Naturals Cocoa Nibs and Honey Growth Oil for my night time scalp massages. I find that my new growth comes in full force when I use this as part of my scalp massage routine every other night (or whenever I remember lol). It has a sweet fragrance, awesome ingredients, very light in consistency and  it doesn't irritate my scalp - ever!

RevAir on Relaxed Hair

As for tools, I'm now a RevAir girl! Yup, you read that right. RevAir has made its entrance into my hair routine and it’s been such a treat on wash day. I will admit it’s kind of a bulky (lol) tool to lug around and maneuver but it’s such a game changer. It lengthens my hair and new growth pretty well without the risk of heat damage. I love using tension level #7 on the low heat setting (#2/3) to achieve a smooth, straighter appearance, if I don’t feel like air drying. This tool has definitely helped me stretch my relaxers even further. I'm also thinking that the Revair may eliminate the need to flat iron on relaxer day - what do you think? I typically like to pick one heat source and run with it. I'll try it out and see :)

Click here to grab your RevAir NOW!

Affirm Conditioning Relaxer - Normal Strength

If you've been following me for a while, you know that I recently made the switch from ORS Olive Oil Relaxer (Lye) to Affirm Conditioning Relaxer (Lye). If you're one of my YT subscribers, then you would have seen my last relaxer day video explaining why I re-visited Affirm - who knew I was using the system wrong?!? *rolls eyes* lol. So, in addition to me using it incorrectly, there are a couple other reason's as to why I decided to make the switch over to Affirm: 

Number #1, my Avlon distributer informed me that I was using the system incorrectly. I was using the mid-step conditioner (Affirm Positive Link) twice within my relaxer session causing an over-processed appearance 3-4 weeks into my relaxer stretch. This mid-step conditioner is packed with ceramides which strengthen and fortify the hair. Overuse of strengthening ingredients, on relaxer day, can cause slight reversion. Since taking her advice, and doing the relaxer process in the correct order, my results are way more favourable with a straighter appearance for a longer period of time!

Number #2, the quality of ingredients. This relaxer system is LOADED with conditioning (Argan oil, Pequi oil, Cupuacu butter, etc.) and strengthening (Keratin) agents from start to finish. This system makes my hair feel soft, fortified, conditioned and smooth as if I had a moisture-based wash day. I kid you not! I've said this before, and I'll say it again...relaxer day with Affirm feels like a regular wash day. There’s no harsh relaxer scent (which I appreciate) and the texture of the relaxer gives off a very whipped creamy consistency. I think this is why the relaxer is so conditioning. Not only that, but I reached out to Dr. Syed, the chemist at Avlon, and he advised that all of their products (including relaxers) do not contain any phthalates or endocrine disruptors, so that's a huge plus!  

Number #3, colour indicator neutralizing shampoo! No brainer right? I know. It's been a total game changer and time saver in my relaxer day routine. I no longer do the "5, 5, 10 Rule" with this relaxer system, for obvious reasons, and as a result my hair remains much more hydrated and softer. Did I mention it's pH balanced? Girl. It gives me silky-smooth-closed cuticles every time!

Don't get me wrong, ORS Olive Oil was, and still is, a good relaxer system. I just wanted to use a comprehensive relaxer system, with quality ingredients, where each product compliments each other and prioritizes the health of my hair - from start to finish. So far, I've been pretty happy with the change! 

  

In case you're wondering, after I neutralize, I still use a sulfate-free shampoo and deep condition. For shampoo, I use Keracare Hydrating and Detangling Shampoo and for deep conditioning, I'll use either Joico Moisture Recovery Treatment Balm or Silicon Mix Bambu with heat for 25-30mins (under steamer or hooded dryer). These conditioners prep and prime my hair perfectly before I flat iron.

Recently, I grabbed a new water bottle (I have an obsession now) and it's been my bestie ever since! I purchased this trendy 40oz tumbler off of Amazon. It’s an insulated stainless steel cup with handle and straw. I drink about 2 of these per day and I'm good to go! What I love most, is that it keeps my water cool all day - it’s way more refreshing! 

    

Other than that, everything has been good. I’ve been pretty consistent with my water intake, daily vitamins (multi, probiotic, B-complex, vitamin c, omegas), diet etc.  I always share the protein green smoothies I make on my IG stories - love them! I’ve been so bad with hairstyles lately though lol. I don't do much to my hair - I leave it alone. I just prefer simple clean looks ie. middle part & down, low bun, high bun, braid-out occasionally etc. Less is more, for me at least.

So that's the latest! Sorry for the long novel :)

Xoxo

"My hair is constantly breaking! How can I fix this?"

This is probably one of the MOST frequently asked questions I receive on a weekly basis. To be honest, it's such a tricky question to answer because everyone's hair is unique and there's a ton of variables to consider, but it's a valid question that deserves an explanation or two.

First things first, breakage is inevitable. It will happen, and that's okay. <— Read that again if you need to!

There is no such person, race or hair type that is exempt from this. Hair breakage is your hair's way of letting you know that something is off and for you to address your hair's needs accordingly. With healthy balanced hair, you'll notice a decrease in the amount of breakage you receive and an increase in length retention.

So, when it comes to relaxed hair breakage, I've learned that there are several key factors that you should avoid being guilty of, if you want to grow your relaxed hair long and healthy.

5 Reasons Why YOUR Relaxed Hair Is Breaking! And How To Fix It: 

1. Moisture Deficiency

This is hair that is super dry, rough, and brittle! Your hair is snapping and popping off into tiny piece everywhere you turn with little to no manipulation. Why? Well, dry moisture deprived hair lacks elasticity. This is a result of your hair not receiving adequate moisture levels for your hair type. Elasticity is an indicator of your hair's health. If you can't stretch a strand and have it return to its previous length and shape, then we have a problem. Hydration and moisture should be the cornerstone of your hair regimen until your hair is restored and balanced. The question is how can you fix moisture deficient hair? Simple. Up your moisture levels. 

Here are some ways to do that:

• moisturizing your ends with a water-based protein-free moisturizer and sealing with an oil - nightly
• misting your hair periodically throughout the day or right before you moisturize and seal
• deep conditioning weekly with a protein-free moisture based deep conditioner
• throwing in a mid-week co-wash
• baggying your ends after you moisturize and seal for several minutes (to an hour) to lock in moisture

Having a low moisture regimen is a recipe for dryness and breakage. Be sure to read your product ingredient labels in search for moisture-based ingredients. Overusing protein-based products (products containing hydrolyzed silk, keratin, collagen, etc.), without balancing it with moisture, will contribute to dry, ridged hair that is prone to breakage. Always analyze your hair!

Check out my video on MOISTURE vs. PROTEIN | The Benefits & Differences, Reading Product Ingredients + MORE

2. Protein Deficiency

Protein deficient hair is overly stretchy, limp, and weak! This is a result of excess moisture in the hair causing the hair structure to be overly elastic. Without adequate structure in the hair, the hair can be prone to breakage. I know protein gets a bad rep in the haircare world, but it's so necessary for balanced healthy hair. Protein binds to the cuticles and penetrates deep within the cortex to heal the hair from the inside out. A lack of protein in the hair can compromise the hair structure, increase weak strands, cause thinning, and promote breakage. So how can you fix protein deficient hair? Easy. Give your hair a dose of protein every so often when you notice the symptoms above.

Here are some ways to incorporate protein into your regimen:

• use a protein-based leave-in conditioner on wash days and then layer it with a moisturizing leave-in for the perfect balance.
• use a light protein conditioner/reconstructor biweekly or monthly, depending on your hair's needs. Always follow up with a moisture based deep conditioner for balance
• include protein-based foods in your diet i.e. eggs, meat, nuts, protein shakes etc. Protein is essential for hair growth and it's always best to nourish your hair from the inside out!

3. High Manipulation

If you are guilty of changing your hairstyle daily, or combing and touching your hair often then listen up - you need to stop! No, seriously. Over manipulating your hair and constantly adding stress to your strands will lead to breakage. Pulling, tugging, tension, and friction is a recipe for disaster. Over manipulating your hair will put you further and further away from your hair goals.  Less is better, trust me. Keep styling to a minimum and you'll notice minimal breakage over time!

Here are a few ways to limit daily/weekly manipulation:

• put the comb down and finger comb - first!
• use a wide tooth comb instead of a finer tooth comb
• keep your fingers out of your hair
• thoroughly detangle on wash days, not daily
• keep your styles simple and tension free
• slow down and detangle, take your time

4. Lack of Protection

Understand that safe and effective preservation of your hair/ends, leads to healthier longer hair. We all know that the ends are the oldest part of the hair. They are porous, fragile and require more care to see length. With that being said, it's vital that we protect our ends from the elements, i.e. clothing, environment etc., as much as possible. Going to bed without proper protection, i.e. satin scarf, bonnet or satin pillow case - is a problem. Wearing your hair down and having it rub against harsh clothing - is a problem. Using heat appliances without heat protection - is a problem. Not giving your ends a break from daily wear and tear - is a problem.

Here are a couple ways to protect your hair for healthier hair:

• wear a satin bonnet/scarf/pillowcase to bed
• wear smooth fabrics when wearing your hair down
• use a heat protectant every time you use direct heat
• throw your hair into a tension free protective style - frequently

5. Not Removing Product Build Up

Believe it or not, product build up can inhibit your hair cuticles from accepting additional products possibly leaving your hair dry, dull, and rough.  Blocked cuticles and dryness will lead to breakage. Product buildup and residue can leave the hair feeling weighed down. The cuticles are unable to breathe, the hair becomes unmanageable, and it begins to suffer. If you notice that your hair is lacking shine, tangled/matted, constantly breaking, difficult to comb, constantly dry or rough - you need to clarify your hair asap. Clarifying your hair with a sulfate shampoo will rid your hair of product, residue, dirt, and buildup allowing your cuticles to breathe and accept product. Removing buildup monthly will give your hair a clean slate allowing your hair to hold on to moisture, feel softer, smoother and much more manageable.

BONUS: 

6. Neglecting Your Trims

Failing to trim when it's needed is setting yourself up for future disappointment. Neglecting your trims for the sake of temporary ‘length’ isn't worth it in the long run. Why? Well, missing your trims can cause your split ends to get worse. Unkempt ends can lead to further splits causing tangles, breakage and eventually thinning. Maintaining a trim schedule that rids your ends of thinning, splits, single strand knots etc. is crucial in preventing breakage. I highly suggest doing light dustings every month (taking off 1/4" of an inch) and trim with every relaxer or every 12-14 weeks (taking off 1/2-1" inch). 

Don't avoid your trims, choose health over length - always!

I say this all the time, small healthy hair habits, overtime, will eventually add up resulting in healthier longer hair! But, let's go deeper. 

I received this question from one of my Instagram followers this week and it's a great one to share here on my blog as I know many are probably wondering the same thing.

Finding your holy grail products can be an exhausting task! But only through the process of trial and error are we able to find our 'tried and true' products.

Now the question is, "how will you know when your hair likes a product?"

As simple as this question is, the answer is a little complex.

Sometimes, when we try new products for a few days, it can be hard to 'hear' what our hair is saying to us. But if you pay close attention to the appearance and feel of your hair, you will begin to 'listen' and act accordingly.

It really boils down to results! The results you receive when you try a particular hair product.

For instance, if you try a moisture based product that claims to 'hydrate, smooth and moisturize damaged strands' yet every time you use it your hair appears dull, dry, rough, and you notice breakage! Chances are your hair does NOT like that particular product. No need to repeat the process, sis.


Is this product doing what it's intended to do? How does my hair look after using this product? How does it feel? How does my scalp feel? Is it clean? Is there any product build up on my strands or scalp? Has my breakage decreased? Has my shedding decreased?

Mini hair assessments, pre and post product usage, will allow you to understand your hair better and what it likes! Below are the 5 signs to look out for when trying to figure out if your hair likes a product.

5 Signs Indicating Your Hair Likes A Product:

1. Increase In Moisture Levels - Soft moisturized hair is a big indicator that your hair has responded well to a product. An easy yet effective way to tell if your hair is 'moisturized' is by touching it. Your hair will feel much more manageable, soft and slightly cool-to-the-touch indicating that moisture has been locked in to the strands. Nothing like a product that effectively hydrates the hair!

2. Less Breakage - It's important to know that breakage is inevitable, it will happen. However, the focus needs to shift to ensuring it doesn't go out of control or happen often - minimizing breakage is key! Wait a few days after using a product to see if you notice a change in the amount of breakage you receive. If you notice far less breakage, then you normally would experience, then you know that the product is working to restore balance in your strands. Less breakage equates to length retention over time!

3. Less Tangles - If you notice less tangles, knots and matting - after using a haircare product -  there's a 99% chance that your hair is responding positively and it's a keeper! Less tangles means less friction between your strands. The cuticles are laying flat as they should! Less friction leads to less breakage. 

4. Increase in Shine - Shine in the hair is a result of closed cuticles, which means your strands are sitting at the right pH level to effectively lock in moisture. Closed cuticles reflect light; therefore, your hair will give off a sheen/shine after using products that your hair loves. If you notice a subtle shine/sheen to your hair after using a certain product, it's a good thing!

5. Calm Scalp - Scalp irritation and sensitivity is no fun. Using a product that causes itchiness, dryness, flakes, soreness or even shedding is a big indicator that it's not for you. Your scalp is the foundation of your hair, so keeping it in tip-top shape is crucial for healthy hair growth. An easy way to assess if a product is working for you (and agrees with your scalp), is if your scalp is displaying the opposite of everything I mentioned above. No, honestly!  If a product is in fact working, your scalp will be calm, hydrated, clear of any flakes, no excessive itching, and free of build up etc.

Again, pay close attention to how your hair is looking and feeling after using new products. Don't ignore the signs and cues your hair gives you. Always listen to your hair!

Hey girlie, 

 

Answering your hair and non-hair related questions! 

On my Instagram page, I've been talking about how important is it to create a habit of reading the ingredient labels on your hair products. As a fun challenge, I encouraged my followers to research the top 5-10 ingredients in their favourite hair products to master the benefits of each ingredient for their hair.

This is crucial in any hair journey! Knowing how a product performs, and how your hair may react to it, is necessary in order to keep and repeat what's successful and/or omit what doesn't work.

Early on in my hair journey, I became obsessed with learning the benefits in the ingredients of my favourite hair products. This curiosity led me to understand my hair better and successfully pick products that agree with my hair. 

Recently, I've noticed an incline in messages from ladies who are using products incorrectly i.e. using a protein based conditioner when they thought it was moisture based or using a clarifying shampoo weekly when they should have been using a sulfate free shampoo. Unfortunately, this confusion and misuse of product usage led to unwanted dryness, breakage and shedding all because they were unaware of what their products contained.

I get it, reading a product label can be intimidating and confusing. Trying to pronounce these long everlasting words can be overwhelming...whew!

But at the same time, it's crucial to learn the job of each ingredient. Some strengthen the hair, while others provide moisture and slip. Today, I'm breaking this down for you.

Below, I'm going to share ingredients most associated within each hair care category so that you can easily spot them when browsing ingredients in your products at home or when you go shopping. I will be breaking ingredients down by category: Cleansers/Clarifying, Detangling, Protein/Strength, Moisture/Hydration, Shine/Penetrating Oils.

Let's get started!

For cleansers, we have clarifying shampoos and sulfate free shampoos. We keep these in rotation within our hair regimens. However, it's important to know and understand the difference between the two. 

Clarifying shampoos strip the hair of product build up, dirt, oils etc. It is formulated to deep clean the hair an scalp. It's highly recommended to use a sulfate-free shampoo after using a clarifying shampoo to restore the softness and moisture back into the hair. Clarifying shampoos should be used once a month to reset the hair and enhance the absorption of products. These shampoos have the following ingredients:

• Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
• Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
• Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
• Sodium Stearate
• Alpha-olefin Sulfonate