"My hair is constantly breaking! How can I fix this?"

This is probably one of the MOST frequently asked questions I receive on a weekly basis. To be honest, it's such a tricky question to answer because everyone's hair is unique and there's a ton of variables to consider, but it's a valid question that deserves an explanation or two.

First things first, breakage is inevitable. It will happen, and that's okay. <— Read that again if you need to!

There is no such person, race or hair type that is exempt from this. Hair breakage is your hair's way of letting you know that something is off and for you to address your hair's needs accordingly. With healthy balanced hair, you'll notice a decrease in the amount of breakage you receive and an increase in length retention.

So, when it comes to relaxed hair breakage, I've learned that there are several key factors that you should avoid being guilty of, if you want to grow your relaxed hair long and healthy.

5 Reasons Why YOUR Relaxed Hair Is Breaking! And How To Fix It: 

1. Moisture Deficiency

This is hair that is super dry, rough, and brittle! Your hair is snapping and popping off into tiny piece everywhere you turn with little to no manipulation. Why? Well, dry moisture deprived hair lacks elasticity. This is a result of your hair not receiving adequate moisture levels for your hair type. Elasticity is an indicator of your hair's health. If you can't stretch a strand and have it return to its previous length and shape, then we have a problem. Hydration and moisture should be the cornerstone of your hair regimen until your hair is restored and balanced. The question is how can you fix moisture deficient hair? Simple. Up your moisture levels. 

Here are some ways to do that:

• moisturizing your ends with a water-based protein-free moisturizer and sealing with an oil - nightly
• misting your hair periodically throughout the day or right before you moisturize and seal
• deep conditioning weekly with a protein-free moisture based deep conditioner
• throwing in a mid-week co-wash
• baggying your ends after you moisturize and seal for several minutes (to an hour) to lock in moisture

Having a low moisture regimen is a recipe for dryness and breakage. Be sure to read your product ingredient labels in search for moisture-based ingredients. Overusing protein-based products (products containing hydrolyzed silk, keratin, collagen, etc.), without balancing it with moisture, will contribute to dry, ridged hair that is prone to breakage. Always analyze your hair!

Check out my video on MOISTURE vs. PROTEIN | The Benefits & Differences, Reading Product Ingredients + MORE

2. Protein Deficiency

Protein deficient hair is overly stretchy, limp, and weak! This is a result of excess moisture in the hair causing the hair structure to be overly elastic. Without adequate structure in the hair, the hair can be prone to breakage. I know protein gets a bad rep in the haircare world, but it's so necessary for balanced healthy hair. Protein binds to the cuticles and penetrates deep within the cortex to heal the hair from the inside out. A lack of protein in the hair can compromise the hair structure, increase weak strands, cause thinning, and promote breakage. So how can you fix protein deficient hair? Easy. Give your hair a dose of protein every so often when you notice the symptoms above.

Here are some ways to incorporate protein into your regimen:

• use a protein-based leave-in conditioner on wash days and then layer it with a moisturizing leave-in for the perfect balance.
• use a light protein conditioner/reconstructor biweekly or monthly, depending on your hair's needs. Always follow up with a moisture based deep conditioner for balance
• include protein-based foods in your diet i.e. eggs, meat, nuts, protein shakes etc. Protein is essential for hair growth and it's always best to nourish your hair from the inside out!

3. High Manipulation

If you are guilty of changing your hairstyle daily, or combing and touching your hair often then listen up - you need to stop! No, seriously. Over manipulating your hair and constantly adding stress to your strands will lead to breakage. Pulling, tugging, tension, and friction is a recipe for disaster. Over manipulating your hair will put you further and further away from your hair goals.  Less is better, trust me. Keep styling to a minimum and you'll notice minimal breakage over time!

Here are a few ways to limit daily/weekly manipulation:

• put the comb down and finger comb - first!
• use a wide tooth comb instead of a finer tooth comb
• keep your fingers out of your hair
• thoroughly detangle on wash days, not daily
• keep your styles simple and tension free
• slow down and detangle, take your time

4. Lack of Protection

Understand that safe and effective preservation of your hair/ends, leads to healthier longer hair. We all know that the ends are the oldest part of the hair. They are porous, fragile and require more care to see length. With that being said, it's vital that we protect our ends from the elements, i.e. clothing, environment etc., as much as possible. Going to bed without proper protection, i.e. satin scarf, bonnet or satin pillow case - is a problem. Wearing your hair down and having it rub against harsh clothing - is a problem. Using heat appliances without heat protection - is a problem. Not giving your ends a break from daily wear and tear - is a problem.

Here are a couple ways to protect your hair for healthier hair:

• wear a satin bonnet/scarf/pillowcase to bed
• wear smooth fabrics when wearing your hair down
• use a heat protectant every time you use direct heat
• throw your hair into a tension free protective style - frequently

5. Not Removing Product Build Up

Believe it or not, product build up can inhibit your hair cuticles from accepting additional products possibly leaving your hair dry, dull, and rough.  Blocked cuticles and dryness will lead to breakage. Product buildup and residue can leave the hair feeling weighed down. The cuticles are unable to breathe, the hair becomes unmanageable, and it begins to suffer. If you notice that your hair is lacking shine, tangled/matted, constantly breaking, difficult to comb, constantly dry or rough - you need to clarify your hair asap. Clarifying your hair with a sulfate shampoo will rid your hair of product, residue, dirt, and buildup allowing your cuticles to breathe and accept product. Removing buildup monthly will give your hair a clean slate allowing your hair to hold on to moisture, feel softer, smoother and much more manageable.

BONUS: 

6. Neglecting Your Trims

Failing to trim when it's needed is setting yourself up for future disappointment. Neglecting your trims for the sake of temporary ‘length’ isn't worth it in the long run. Why? Well, missing your trims can cause your split ends to get worse. Unkempt ends can lead to further splits causing tangles, breakage and eventually thinning. Maintaining a trim schedule that rids your ends of thinning, splits, single strand knots etc. is crucial in preventing breakage. I highly suggest doing light dustings every month (taking off 1/4" of an inch) and trim with every relaxer or every 12-14 weeks (taking off 1/2-1" inch). 

Don't avoid your trims, choose health over length - always!

I say this all the time, small healthy hair habits, overtime, will eventually add up resulting in healthier longer hair! But, let's go deeper. 

Happy Sunday! 

Hey hun! 

I received this question from one of my Instagram followers this week and it's a great one to share here on my blog as I know many are probably wondering the same thing.

Finding your holy grail products can be an exhausting task! But only through the process of trial and error are we able to find our 'tried and true' products.

Now the question is, "how will you know when your hair likes a product?"

As simple as this question is, the answer is a little complex.

Sometimes, when we try new products for a few days, it can be hard to 'hear' what our hair is saying to us. But if you pay close attention to the appearance and feel of your hair, you will begin to 'listen' and act accordingly.

It really boils down to results! The results you receive when you try a particular hair product.

For instance, if you try a moisture based product that claims to 'hydrate, smooth and moisturize damaged strands' yet every time you use it your hair appears dull, dry, rough, and you notice breakage! Chances are your hair does NOT like that particular product. No need to repeat the process, sis.


Is this product doing what it's intended to do? How does my hair look after using this product? How does it feel? How does my scalp feel? Is it clean? Is there any product build up on my strands or scalp? Has my breakage decreased? Has my shedding decreased?

Mini hair assessments, pre and post product usage, will allow you to understand your hair better and what it likes! Below are the 5 signs to look out for when trying to figure out if your hair likes a product.

5 Signs Indicating Your Hair Likes A Product:

1. Increase In Moisture Levels - Soft moisturized hair is a big indicator that your hair has responded well to a product. An easy yet effective way to tell if your hair is 'moisturized' is by touching it. Your hair will feel much more manageable, soft and slightly cool-to-the-touch indicating that moisture has been locked in to the strands. Nothing like a product that effectively hydrates the hair!

2. Less Breakage - It's important to know that breakage is inevitable, it will happen. However, the focus needs to shift to ensuring it doesn't go out of control or happen often - minimizing breakage is key! Wait a few days after using a product to see if you notice a change in the amount of breakage you receive. If you notice far less breakage, then you normally would experience, then you know that the product is working to restore balance in your strands. Less breakage equates to length retention over time!

3. Less Tangles - If you notice less tangles, knots and matting - after using a haircare product -  there's a 99% chance that your hair is responding positively and it's a keeper! Less tangles means less friction between your strands. The cuticles are laying flat as they should! Less friction leads to less breakage. 

4. Increase in Shine - Shine in the hair is a result of closed cuticles, which means your strands are sitting at the right pH level to effectively lock in moisture. Closed cuticles reflect light; therefore, your hair will give off a sheen/shine after using products that your hair loves. If you notice a subtle shine/sheen to your hair after using a certain product, it's a good thing!

5. Calm Scalp - Scalp irritation and sensitivity is no fun. Using a product that causes itchiness, dryness, flakes, soreness or even shedding is a big indicator that it's not for you. Your scalp is the foundation of your hair, so keeping it in tip-top shape is crucial for healthy hair growth. An easy way to assess if a product is working for you (and agrees with your scalp), is if your scalp is displaying the opposite of everything I mentioned above. No, honestly!  If a product is in fact working, your scalp will be calm, hydrated, clear of any flakes, no excessive itching, and free of build up etc.

Again, pay close attention to how your hair is looking and feeling after using new products. Don't ignore the signs and cues your hair gives you. Always listen to your hair!

Hey girlie, 

1. Do a Prepoo!

Doing a pre-shampoo treatment is an excellent way to soften and detangle your new growth. Let's face it, your new growth is coily, kinky and a completely different texture from your relaxed ends. Going straight into your shampoo routine can cause the two textures to fight with each other causing severe tangles and knots!

Prepooing with a conditioner, oil or both will help marry these two textures so that they are not fighting with each other. Doing a prepoo treatment will help melt away tangles in your new growth giving your hair much more slip and smoothness during the shampooing process.

Mielle Organics Mongongo Oil Pre-Shampoo Treatment and African Pride Moisture Miracle Aloe & Coconut Water Pre-Shampoo Conditioner has been a huge hit in delivering softness and manageability to the hair before shampooing. It's best to leave these on for 15-30 minutes before shampooing. Your wash day will be much more enjoyable!

2. Don't Skip Deep Conditioning!

This is a M U S T during this time as it will provide your coils and kinks with the hydration and strength it needs to become more manageable, soft and resist breakage. With weeks worth of new growth, it's always best to chose a moisture rich conditioner that is thick in consistency. Using a heat source i.e. hooded dryer, heating cap or steamer would be beneficial as well. The heat will help raise your cuticles allowing the deep conditioner to penetrate further into the strands. Deep conditioning on a weekly or biweekly basis, will replenish lost moisture, improve elasticity and fortify your strands to help combat breakage. It's also important to rotate your moisture and protein conditioners. This will help keep your line of demarcation strong decreasing breakage at this weak point. 

Quick tip: Apply your deep conditioner directly to your new growth first, as if you were doing  relaxer re-touch. Ensuring that the new growth is fully saturated in conditioner increases detangling abilities and the chances of it remaining soft and smooth post wash day. 

If you're having a really hard time getting moisture into the hair and taming your new growth, try deep conditioning overnight, with a protein-free deep conditioner. This is not mandatory but it will certainly help to keep your new growth conditioned.

3. Keep it moist!

Moisturizing is so essential especially now that you're new growth is in full effect. Perhaps, you may need to moisturize a little more frequently than you normally would, because of the difference in textures. During my relaxer stretches, I love to use Scurl No Drip Curl Activator in my roots on an 'as needed basis'. This spray moisturizer is very rich and delivers the right amount of moisture to prevent dryness. I spray my roots daily or every other day to ensure it remains soft and moist.

4. Keep it detangled!

So vital!! I've experienced matted new growth as a result of not keeping it thoroughly detangled each wash day - not fun! In my detangling process, I would use both by wide tooth comb and my fingers to get through my knots and tangles. If my hair is super tangled, I bring out my Keracare Detangling Conditioning Mist. This stuff is bomb! It melts away knots and tangles and smooths the cuticles while moisturizing and conditioning the hair. This is a leave-in product (protein-free) so it's best to use it after wash day. I mist my hair with it and then let it sit for 1-2 minutes before I start to detangle.

I, then, use my fingers to prevent any unnecessary breakage. It's important to be gentle and slow during this process. By using my fingers, I would feel through the knots and slowly remove them.

Next, I run my wide tooth comb through my hair, from my ends up.  I would do this only on wash day to avoid over-manipulation. You can go a step further and use a Denman brush or detangling brush that's suitable for wet and dry hair.

5. Leave it alone!

This is probably the best thing you can do after you've washed, conditioned, moisturized, and detangled your hair. Don't touch it again until the next wash day. Leaving your hair in a simple style i.e. cornrows, French braids, low bun, wigs etc. is ideal as these styles will lock in moisture and keep your hands out of your hair. Less manipulation = less tangles = less breakage. Also, try keeping your new growth stretched as this will prevent matting due to shrinkage i.e. air drying in a low ponytail, use the Scarf Method, try the banding method etc.

Hang in there girl, I hope this helps!

Let me know what tips and tricks are helping you during this time!

XO